Visual sensibility evaluation of Korean traditional indigo‐dyed lyocell fabrics

Abstract

Eco‐friendly dyeing technology with regard to manufactured fibres is receiving considerable attention, while textile coloration requires highly advanced interdisciplinary approaches including textile science, dyeing chemistry, consumer sensibility and cultural aspects. In this study, lyocell fabrics were dyed with the traditional Korean indigo dyestuff, Niram, and their psychological colour sensibility was measured and discussed in relation to the physical colour properties in the context of global culture. A systematic dyeing process was developed to obtain a variety of colours utilising different dyestuff concentrations, reducing agent concentration and construction of fabrics. According to participants’ responses to a questionnaire, all lyocell fabrics dyed with traditional Korean indigo dyestuffs were visually perceived and recognised as ‘cold’, ‘clean’, ‘plain’, ‘elegant’ and ‘exotic’. Psychological colour sensibility showed statistically significant correlation with the concentrations of dye and reducing agent. In the situation where fabrics were dyed under high dye concentration and darker/bluish colour properties, the subjects had an ‘exotic’ and ‘western’ appearance rather than ‘oriental’ and ‘banal’. According to the results of ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range tests, two dyeing conditions, and dye concentration in particular, had a significant impact on all psychological colour sensibilities except for warm‐cold’. Reducing agent concentration significantly affected ‘warm‐cold’, while ‘vivid‐subdued’ was affected by two‐way interaction effects between dye concentration and reducing agent concentration. Traditional Korean indigo dyestuff concentration and reducing agent concentration can be adjusted appropriately and controlled for efficient vat dye to produce and design diverse combinations of psychological colour sensibilities.