Abstract

Aster yomena (A. yomena) extract has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-asthma, and anti-atopic effects. However, the commercial use of A. yomena extract requires a long processing time with specific processing steps (including heat treatment and ethanol precipitation), and there are various environmental problems. We aimed to build a system to produce A. yomena extract by culturing the callus in a bioreactor that can allow rapid process scale-up to test the effect of extract (AYC-CS-E) isolated from culture supernatant of A. yomena callus on photoaging of human keratinocytes (HaCaT) caused by ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure. Through screening analysis based on ultra-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC/Q-TOF-MS), 17 major metabolites were tentatively identified from AYC-CS-E for the first time. The suppression of cell proliferation caused by UVB was effectively alleviated in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells treated with AYC-CS-E. Treatment with AYC-CS-E strongly induced the formation of type I procollagen and the inhibition of elastase in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells and significantly reduced the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1. In addition, treatment of UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells with AYC-CS-E effectively improved various factors associated with an inflammatory reaction, skin damage recovery, skin moisture retention, and hyper-keratinization caused by photoaging, such as reactive oxygen species (ROS), pro-inflammatory cytokines, transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β), MMP-3, MMP-9, filaggrin, hyaluronic acid synthase 2 (HAS-2), keratin 1 (KRT-1), nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB), and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) at the gene and protein levels. These results suggest that AYC-CS-E can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for various skin diseases caused by photoaging, and the current callus culture system can be used commercially to supply cosmetic ingredients.

Highlights

  • AYC-CS-E, which can be prepared by minimizing material damage and processing time, isolated from callus culture system using A. yomena roots was used in this study

  • Our results suggested that treatment of ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated HaCaT cells with AYC-CS-E effectively improved various factors (MMP-1, Figure 3c; matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-3, MMP-9, filaggrin, hyaluronic acid synthase 2 (HAS-2), keratin 1 (KRT-1), Figure 4; intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS), Figure 5a; pro-inflammatory cytokines, Figure 5b) associated with oxidative stress, inflammatory reactions, skin damage recovery, skin moisture retention, and hyper-keratinization caused by photoaging at the gene and protein levels

  • Because our system does not require these process steps, the A. yomena callus culture system established in this study is expected to be useful in providing effective functional materials for anti-photoaging

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Summary

Introduction

Numerous studies have reported the positive effects of natural resources on human skin, such as antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, whitening, and anti-wrinkle effects [5,6,7]. Despite these benefits, natural resources face extinction and pollution [8]. Inhibition of growth and mutation may be induced by toxic chemicals, air pollution, and water pollution [10,11] These phenomena can have negative effects in various industrial fields that require a large number of natural resources of uniform quality. There is an urgent need for a technology to harvest a large amount of high-quality natural resources, regardless of the growing environment, such as the region, temperature, and cultivation conditions

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