Abstract
High frequency near-bottom velocities measured by a combined pressure gauge and flow-meter are analysed with a view to understanding and modelling waves and sediment transport in shallow waters. Data from five stations in different water depth, wave and current conditions are compared. Wave, tide/surge and turbulence components have been separated from the bottom velocity data and are used to derive a friction velocity and examine the bottom stress parameterisation. The horizontal component of turbulent velocity fluctuations near the bed is found to be well-correlated with the bed shear stress from a combined wave and current model. The model of Christoffersen and Jonsson [Christoffersen, J.B., Jonsson, I.G., 1985. Bed friction and dissipation in a combined current and wave motion. Ocean Engineering, 12, 5, 387–423] is in reasonable agreement with the observed data. The observed turbulence can shed light on the wave bed shear stress as well as the shear stress due to the current. A fitting procedure gives a derived Nikuradse length scale for each station which is similar to that obtained independently from bed grain size estimates.
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