Abstract
Shoreface-connected ridges (SFCR) are series of ridges and troughs obliquely oriented towards the shore in the inner-continental shelf. They exist sporadically from Long Island to Florida on the North American Atlantic Shelf with maximum expression on the Delmarva peninsula (Swift et al., 1978), including the western half of Fire Island, NY. The long-term historic shoreline record of Fire Island (e.g., Allen and LaBash, 1997) shows persistent undulations in shoreline shape at an alongshore scale similar to the alongshore scale of the ridges. These ridges and troughs are spaced approximately every 2 to 3 km in the alongshore and occupy a total length about 14 km in the cross-shore direction with an average crest to trough height of 2 m.
Highlights
Shoreface-connected ridges (SFCR) are series of ridges and troughs obliquely oriented towards the shore in the inner-continental shelf
The maximum variation occurs for waves with an incoming wave angle similar to the orientation of the long axis of the ridges
To study the effect of ridges without the other complexities in the bathymetry and forcing, SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) is configured to simulate wave transformation on a simplified, synthetic bathymetry replicating the scales of the SFCR (Figure 2), forced with a variety of realistic wave parameters based on observations near Fire Island collected by the National Data Buoy Center
Summary
Shoreface-connected ridges (SFCR) are series of ridges and troughs obliquely oriented towards the shore in the inner-continental shelf. The ridges act as a wave guide, producing areas of wave focusing and defocusing, for waves approaching from the easterly direction along the axis of the ridges. The maximum variation occurs for waves with an incoming wave angle similar to the orientation of the long axis of the ridges.
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