Secondhand Clothing in Global Commerce: Trade Patterns and Impact

Secondhand clothing has undergone a significant transformation from a vital household asset in the pre-industrial era to a dynamic segment of global trade in the 21st century. However, the advent of fast fashion has led to overproduction and mass consumption of inexpensive garments, fueling a surge in the secondhand clothing trade. Between 2002 and 2022, the market value of this industry quadrupled, with exports accounting for 1.17% of total global clothing exports in 2022. This study explores the global dynamics of secondhand clothing exports, focusing on the top ten exporting countries from 2013 to 2022, with Pakistan included as an emerging player. Export competitiveness tools such as RCA, RSCA, Dynamic RCA, TII, IEMP, and Unit Values are used to understand the secondhand clothing trade patterns. The analysis reveals notable trends: the United States and China dominate the market, while Pakistan and the UAE exhibit the highest growth rates.

The trade in second-hand clothing has been well documented, particularly during the eighteenth century.1 Second-Hand or ‘cast-off clothing allowed poorer consumers to participate in the expanding consumer market. Used clothes were not necessarily cheap, but at around a quarter of the price of new, were more affordable to less the well off.2 However, it has been suggested that as the price of new clothing fell, particularly during the second quarter of the nineteenth century,3 there was a corresponding decline in the importance of the second-hand clothes trade. Francis Place noted that by the 1830s people no longer wanted to wear second-hand clothes, leading to a noticeable decline in the number of ‘old clothes’ sellers in London.4 Second-Hand clothing became increasingly associated with poverty and destitution, especially as knowledge about the transmission of disease through clothing spread beyond medical circles, following the cholera epidemics of the 1830s.5 Thus it is generally supposed that the second-hand clothes trade was in decline by the second quarter of the nineteenth century. However, this narrative is largely based on studies of London and the larger northern cities; the second-hand clothing trade in smaller towns and the countryside has not been systematically documented.6 Moreover, much attention has focused on women’s involvement in trading second-hand clothing;7 the working man being largely overlooked.8

Purpose: This research aims to determine the influence of consumer behaviour and interests on purchasing decisions for used clothing in Lubuk Pakam City. Design/Method/Approach: This research method is quantitative and associative. The type of data in this research is primary data. The data source was obtained from consumers through distributing questionnaires to consumers purchasing used clothing in Lubuk Pakam, who will be used as samples in the research. The population in this study was 93,064 people. The sample in this study was taken using a probability sampling technique using the Slovin formula, with a sample size of as many as 100 respondents. The data analysis used is multiple linear regressions. Findings: The results show that consumer behaviour has a positive and significant effect on purchasing decisions, indicating that purchasing second-hand clothing is primarily motivated by price considerations, product quality, and trend-following behaviour. Conversely, consumer interest does not significantly affect purchasing decisions, suggesting that although consumers may be attracted to second-hand clothing, it does not automatically translate into actual purchases, likely due to social stigma or hygiene concerns. Simultaneously, consumer behaviour and interest together significantly influence purchasing decisions, confirming that decision-making in this market is multifactorial and cannot rely solely on interest alone. Originality/Values: These findings contribute theoretically by enhancing the understanding of consumer behaviour in second-hand clothing purchases and offer direct practical implementations. For business actors, the insights enable the design of more targeted marketing strategies that emphasise consumer behaviour factors such as price sensitivity, brand perception, and trend adoption, rather than solely relying on consumer interest. For policymakers, the results support the development of more balanced regulations that protect public health and promote local industries while accommodating the strong consumer demand for second-hand clothing. Additionally, the findings help advocate for programs that ensure hygiene standards and legal compliance in the second-hand clothing trade in cities like Lubuk Pakam.

Consumption Offers A compelling angle for reconsidering the urban in ongoing transformations both of livelihoods in Zambia's capital Lusaka and of urban‐rural relations. The paper draws on research into the commercial export of secondhand clothing from North America and Northwestern Europe with particular attention to the consumption practices this trade has fuelled in Zambia since the late 1980s. The popular consumption circuit that has emerged around the secondhand clothing trade is replacing conventional rural‐urban distinctions with notions of us/them, and rich/poor countries as Zambians construe meanings about themselves and the West through clothing consumption.

Stretching global production networks: The international second-hand clothing trade

This paper explores the global dynamics of second-hand clothing (SHC) in light of the circular economy to identify gaps and suggest pathways to reduce negative impacts on the sector. The analysis identifies current global patterns of SHC international trade and the main hotspots, in order to build a framework for action. The framework incorporates the main stakeholders and a set of actions aimed at reducing the environmental and social issues associated with the international trade of SHC. The analysis suggests that the framework may reduce risks and facilitate the transition to a just circular economy in the SHC sector.

The rapid expansion in commercial exports of second-hand clothing from the West to the Third World and the increase in second-hand clothing consumption in many African countries raise challenging questions about the effects of globalisation and the meanings of the West and the local that consumers attribute to objects at different points of their journey across global space. This article draws on extensive research into the sourcing of second-hand clothing in the West, and its wholesaling, retailing, distribution and consumption in Zambia. Discussing how people in Zambia are deahng with the West's unwanted clothing, the article argues that a cultural economy is at work in local appropriations of this particular commodity that is opening space for local agency in clothing consumption. Clothing has a powerful hold on people's imagination because the self and society articulate through the dressed body. To provide background for this argument, the article briefly sketches recent trends in the global second-hand clothing trade that place the countries of sub-Saharan Africa as the world's largest importing region. There follows a discussion of Zambians' preoccupation with clothing, both new and second-hand, historically and at the present time. It demonstrates that the meanings consumers in Zambia attribute to second-hand clothing are neither uniform nor static but shift across class and gender lines, and between urban and rural areas. Above all, they depend on the cultural politics of their time. In dealing with clothing, people in Zambia are making sense of post-colonial society and their own place within it and in the world at large.

Secondhand clothing markets are a common sight in African urban centers. This article investigates the working lives of self-employed market vendors in Maputo, Mozambique. The secondhand clothing system of provision is discussed and the system's effect on vendors’ ability to profit from the secondhand clothing trade is explored. The valuing of used clothing depends both on how individual garments are culturally perceived and on their material use-value. Used clothes vary greatly in quality; some items are valuable fashionable garments whereas others are ripped and soiled waste rags. Different vendors specialize in various types of clothing and accumulate expert knowledge as to how specific items are revalued in Mozambican society. Their businesses have been found to be precarious as they lack agency in influencing the provision of clothing stock imported from the Global North and their ability to achieve profits is affected by the variable quality of used clothing items. This contrasts with other studies of the used clothing trade in sub-Saharan Africa, which have focused on the beneficial opportunities for upgrading livelihoods afforded to those who are able to successfully embed themselves in used clothing supply chains. Furthermore, it is discussed how through their work activities impoverished Mozambican market vendors are entangled with globalization and how the market serves as a site for the expression of aspirations and frustrations.

Purpose This paper aims to highlight the relevance of second-hand clothing (SHC) in the Ethiopian textile and apparel value chain by investigating its potential and establishing a connect to sustainability from a consumption point of view. Design/methodology/approach Primary and secondary methods of research were used in this research. Structured observational technique was used to identify the retailers in the city. In total, 70 retailers of SHC were identified and 15 big size retailers were interviewed with open end questions through judgment sampling method. Findings From the analysis of the field research and scientific literature, the authors strongly believe that SHC has an important space in the consumer retail segment of the country. This trade remains in the shadow but is sustaining livelihoods of citizens. The SHC trade provides an automatic balance to the future excessive consumption which is a result of mass production and hence should be encouraged further on various dimensions. Originality/value Existing literature exhibits statistics of the trade and impact in East African Community (EAC) missing out on Ethiopia as it is not a member of the EAC. Moreover a connection of SHC to sustainability established has never been established in the past for under-developing countries, and it is one of the critical factors in the success of used clothing and future of textile and apparel business. This research also provides channelized solutions to the business for smooth implementation of SHC in Ethiopia and other under-developing countries.

India's silk industry holds a significant position in the global market, ranking as the second largest producer after China. An analysis of trade dynamics and competitiveness reveals notable trends in both exports and imports. Bangladesh leads India's export destinations with a robust Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 21.63 per cent, followed by China at 8.01 per cent, indicating expanding market presence. On the import front, Vietnam and Brazil emerge as key suppliers, with high CAGRs of 42.03 per cent and 33.36 per cent, respectively, suggesting growing dependence on these countries for raw silk or silk yarn. Revealed Comparative Advantage (RCA) analysis from 2011 to 2021 shows that Uzbekistan (25.04) and Romania (10.02) have shown comparative advantage and strong positions in silk exports, whereas two countries show a comparative disadvantage. Market concentration, the global silk export market has a high concentration with an HHI of 0.305, as per the thresholds defined by the UK CMA and US FTC. Meanwhile, global silk imports have an HHI of 0.194, indicating moderate concentration. India’s silk exports show an HHI of 0.188 moderate by UK standards but high by US standards suggesting limited export market diversification and dependency on select importing countries.

Aims: The study aims to analyze the dynamics of export and import growth, variability, and the competitiveness of Indian agricultural commodities. It also examines the comparative advantage and revealed competitiveness of Indian farm exports in the global market. Study Design: A descriptive and analytical study based on secondary time-series data (2013–2022), to assess India’s agricultural trade performance. Place and Duration of Study: The study used data from the ITC Trade Map and Agricultural Statistics at a Glance (Government of India) for the period 2013 to 2022. Methodology: Analytical tools applied include the Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) to measure export and import growth, the Cuddy–Della Valle Instability Index (CDVI) to assess variability, and trade indices such as Revealed Comparative Advantage (RCA), Revealed Symmetric Comparative Advantage (RSCA), and Revealed Competitive Advantage (RC) to evaluate specialization and competitiveness. Results: India's total agricultural exports grew steadily, with a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 6.08%, while imports increased by 9.57%, resulting in a consistent trade surplus. The Cuddy–Della Valle Instability Index indicated moderate variability in exports (25.59%) and in imports (27.4%). Among commodities, sugar (19.37%), rice (10.07%), and marine products (6.58%) recorded the highest export growth, while oilseeds and coffee showed declining trends. The Revealed Comparative Advantage (RCA) analysis indicated that rice (RCA 16.8–19.8), spices (13.0–18.3), tea (4.8–5.8), and copra (up to 11.1) had substantial comparative advantages, whereas wheat (0.07–1.7) and maize (0.23–1.01) exhibited weak or declining competitiveness. The Revealed Symmetric Comparative Advantage (RSCA) values for rice (0.90), spices (0.88), and tea (0.11) confirmed India's strong export specialization in these commodities. Overall, India maintained a favorable agricultural trade balance and global export presence, particularly in traditional crop sectors. Conclusion: The findings indicate a steady improvement in India’s agricultural exports, though competitiveness is weakening for certain cereals and horticultural crops. Policy measures to promote export diversification, value addition, and stable trade infrastructure can enhance India’s long-term agricultural trade performance.

This study investigates the impact of the government’s import ban on used clothing on the secondhand clothing trade. The research seeks to understand how the policy has influenced local trading activities, market dynamics, and consumer behavior. The primary objective of this study is to analyze and describe the socio-economic effects resulting from the implementation of the used clothing import ban, with a particular focus on shifts within the local second-hand clothing market. To achieve this, the study employs a descriptive qualitative approach. Data collection methods include direct field observations, unstructured interviews with traders and consumers, and literature reviews from relevant academic sources and policy documents. This methodological framework allows for an in-depth exploration of the issue from multiple perspectives. The results show that while the import ban has not fully halted secondhand clothing trade, it has contributed to a noticeable slowdown. There has been a gradual reduction in the number of active thrift traders, alongside a modest but growing consumer shift toward new, locally manufactured garments often viewed as more hygienic. Additionally, local garment producers have reported stable or increased demand during certain seasons. The policy has begun to influence market behavior, though its effectiveness remains partial and ongoing.

Experiments on sound for the application of ringing bells

This study examines pharmaceutical trade dynamics within the expanded BRICS10 grouping, comprising the original BRICS5 members (Brazil, Russia, India, China, and South Africa) and five countries that joined in 2024–2025: Egypt, Ethiopia, Iran, the United Arab Emirates (UAE), and Indonesia (these five hereafter referred to as “BRICS Newcomers,” abbreviated as “Newcomers”). The 10 countries are collectively referred to as “BRICS10.” Focusing on 2012–2023, the study explores whether trade patterns within BRICS5, among Newcomers, between the two groups, and across BRICS10 reveal structural asymmetries or early integration signals. A 12-year country-level panel was built using United Nations Comtrade HS Code 30 data on pharmaceutical products. Missing values for Iran and Russia were filled using reclassified mirror statistics. Key indicators included compound annual growth rates (CAGR), trade balances, intra- and inter-group trade shares, and 1 080 dyad-level Trade Intensity Index (TII) scores. Data processing and visualization were conducted using R. In 2023, BRICS10 accounted for 9.7% of global pharmaceutical imports and 4.7% of exports. Intra-bloc trade was limited and uneven: 64.4% of the dyads were under-traded, with a TII of less than 1, and only 3.1% reached very high intensity (TII ≥ 15). India was the sole net exporter, while most members remained dependent on imports. Trade spikes driven by the pandemic were short-lived. This is the first time-series analysis of pharmaceutical trade between BRICS10 countries at the dyad level. It reveals structural imbalances and under-trading on a large scale, providing new evidence to support policies aimed at promoting regional pharmaceutical integration and enhancing health system resilience through South–South cooperation.

Addressing Rage: The Fast Fashion Revolt