Savoring traditions: culinary memory, familial identity, and authenticity of meen curry in Kerala

Abstract

Food has been invented, consumed, modified, and evolved through the ages based on social conditions. This influence can be seen in Kerala, a South Indian state along the Arabian Sea, which has been part of the colonial expedition. The culinary heritage of Kerala is a unique blend of foreign influences from Arabs, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch, and British who arrived on its shores. In this context, the aim of the study is to focus on the authenticity of Kerala’s traditional dish, meen curry, in relation to culinary nostalgia and familial identity. The research paper will provide a comprehensive analysis of meen curry and the ingredients used in Kerala-style restaurant, studio kitchen, toddy shop, and heirloom recipes to understand how the dish is prepared in various settings within and outside the state as an agent of culinary traditions and nostalgia. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with six participants to explore the gastronomic landscape of Bangalore and Kerala with respect to the authenticity of meen curry. The qualitative data from these interviews were analyzed using thematic analysis and categorized into three relevant themes. The findings of the study suggest that the authenticity of meen curry of Kerala is variable and subjective, and one single form of “authentic” meen curry that represents entire Kerala does not exist. The research will contribute to the current academic knowledge on how the authenticity of food is perceived by communities or individuals and suggests that this perspective may be applicable to other societies or cuisines for future research.