Abstract
The relationships between the reversed-phase thin layer chromatographic retention parameters obtained on octadecyl-modified silica (RP-18) sorbent for mobile phases containing water and one of six water-miscible organic modifiers (acetone, methanol, acetonitrile, tetrahydrofurane, N,N-dimethylformamide, 1,4-dioxane) and skin permeability coefficients were studied for a group of 21 cosmetic raw materials, mainly organic sunscreens and preservatives. The correlations between the skin permeability coefficients log K<sub>d</sub> calculated in silico using EpiSuite software and the RP-18 thin layer chromatographic retention parameters are mostly linear, especially for compounds of lower-to-medium lipophilicity. It was established that skin permeability coefficient models based on retention parameters collected for mobile phases containing acetone or dioxane (75% v/v), proposed for structurally unrelated cosmetic raw materials are also applicable to other actives, as shown using a test set of compounds whose in vivo log K<sub>d</sub> data are available. Skin permeability models developed in this study have the benefit of being based on easily obtained, chromatographic descriptors and their applicability extends beyond cosmetic chemistry.
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