Abstract
Basic knowledge of the mechanisms and conditions of cotton fabric wrinkling and recovery is reviewed. Special stress is laid upon the large importance of the treated cotton fiber hygroscopicity for the wrinkling properties at conditions characterized by moisture regains of the fiber lower than those corresponding to complete swelling. At such conditions nonequilibrium aspects of fiber moisture relation during wrinkling must be used rather than equilibrium con siderations. The instability of the cotton fiber material during moisture changes has been observed also by NMR studies. Reducing the hygroscopicity by hydrophobic monosubstitution reduces the wrinkling measured under nonequilibrium moisture conditions. A modified approach on the permanent-press, strength problem may be indicated by the fact that this is ohserved also for crosslinked fabrics, which hypothetically leads to treatments consisting of combinations of mono substitution (for reducing the hygroscopicity) and a reduced amount of cross-linking (for the necessary degree of elasticity).
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