Plants used in blue printing techniques on fabrics

Indigo naturalis (IN), which is derived from indigo plants such as Strobilanthes cusia (Nees) Kuntze, Persicaria tinctoria (Aiton) Spach, and Isatis tinctoria L., has been traditionally used in the treatment of hemoptysis, epistaxis, chest pain, aphtha, and infantile convulsion in China for thousands of years. Clinical trials have shown that the curative effect of IN for psoriasis and ulcerative colitis (UC) is remarkable. A total of sixty-three compounds, including indole alkaloids, terpenoids, organic acids, steroids, and nucleosides, have been isolated from IN, of which indole alkaloids are the most important. Indirubin, isolated from IN, was used as a new agent to treat leukemia in China in the 1970s. Indirubin is also an active ingredient in the treatment of psoriasis. Pharmacological studies have confirmed that IN has inhibitory effects on inflammation, tumors, bacteria, and psoriasis. Indigo, indirubin, tryptanthrin, isorhamnetin, indigodole A, and indigodole C are responsible for these activities. This review provides up-to-date and comprehensive information on IN with regard to its chemistry, pharmacokinetics, pharmacology, clinical applications, adverse events, and quality control. This review may also serve a reference for further research on IN.

BackgroundHistorically, indigo-yielding plant species were important cash crops from Central Asia to the southern United States and Central America. Indigo-dyed textiles were widely traded along the legendary Silk Road that linked China to Europe. Today, due to the labor-intensive nature of indigo extraction at the household level, lifestyle changes and the widespread availability of commercially produced indigo paste, traditional indigo extraction methods have declined in villages. Yet Li textile weavers on Hainan Island are internationally recognized as producers of indigo-dyed textile using warp ikat techniques. In contrast, Hainan Miao weavers produce indigo-dyed textiles using batik (wax resist) techniques. The aim of this study was to document the indigenous knowledge on indigo-yielding plant species used by both Hainan Miao and Li people on Hainan Island, China.MethodEthnic uses were documented during three field surveys, through a questionnaire survey of 193 respondents, comprising 144 Hainan Miao and 49 Li traditional dyers. Mention index (QI), Availability index (AI), and Preference ranking (PR) of each indigo-yielding plant species were calculated to screen out plant resources with potential development value.ResultsFive indigo-yielding plant species (from four plant families and four genera) were historically used by Hainan Miao and Li dyers. However, just four species are still in use. Strobilanthes cusia was the main indigo source for Hainan Miao dyers. Li dyers also commonly use Indigofera species (I. tinctoria and I. suffruticosa) for indigo extraction. Wrightia laevis is less commonly used as a contemporary indigo source. Indigo extraction by steeping in water to which lime is added to increase the pH is sharing by the five indigo-yielding plant species. Strobilanthes cusia had the highest QI, AI and PR values in Hainan Miao villages. Indigofera tinctoria had the highest QI and AI values, but Indigofera suffruticosa was preferred by Li dyers.ConclusionIn the process of modernization and urbanization, some Hainan Miao and Li dyers retain the traditional indigo extraction methods. We found that Strobilanthes cusia and Indigofera tinctoria have the most potential for sustainable indigo production in the future. Furthermore, this study documents the details of extraction method from Wrightia laevis for the first time and the use of Ricinus communis seeds in that process. As one of the last places globally where Wrightia laevis is still used for indigo production, the may also be a nice market among textile collectors and museums that keeps the tradition of Wrightia laevis production and use for indigo extraction alive.

Indigo quality is determined by its indigotin content. Another quality indicator is colour. For an evaluation of species, indigo samples from Indigofera tinctoria, Indigofera suffruticosa, Indigofera arrecta, Persicaria tinctoria, Strobilanthes cusia and Wrightia laevis cultivated in Austria and China were visually classified and analysed spectrophotometrically and using a L*a*b* measuring device. In addition to a standardised hot-extraction method without lime, some samples were extracted simulating traditional methods at ambient temperatures using lime. The highest indigotin contents were achieved with Indigofera arrecta (55%, Austria) and Strobilanthes cusia (56%, China). There were no statistically significant differences between the indigo extraction yields of the species cultivated in Austria, but Indigofera arrecta and Persicaria tinctoria had statistically significantly higher indigotin extraction yields than Indigofera tinctoria and Indigofera suffruticosa. From the species extracted in China, Strobilanthes cusia showed higher values in all parameters than Indigofera tinctoria, Indigofera suffruticosa and Wrightia laevis. Compared with the standardised method, the method simulating local practice yielded more indigo but had a lower indigotin content; the indigotin extraction yields did not differ greatly. L*a*b* values enabled precise estimations of the indigotin content, making it an interesting option for quality control, as inexpensive, easy-to-handle L*a*b* measuring instruments have become available.

This research was conducted from 2004 to 2005 to isolate and select Bradyrhizobium from the root nodules of indigo plants ( Indigofera tinctoria L.). For isolation of Bradyrhizobium , root nodules were collected from indigo plants. Fourteen Bradyrhizobium isolates were identified depending on colony, morphological and biochemical characteristics. Out of fourteen isolates, six (HSTU-IR 2 , HSTU-IR 3 , HSTU-IR 4 , HSTU-IR 9 , HSTU-IR 10 and HSTU-IR 14 ) were found promising with respect to nodulation, shoots and roots weights and N fixation by the indigo plants grown inside the Leonard Bottle Jar Assembly (LBJA). Key words : Bradyrhizobium , isolation, selection, root nodules, indigo plants.

BackgroundIndigo-dyed textiles have been central to the cultural identity of Landian Yao (literally “blue clothes Yao”) people in Southwest China for centuries, driving a significant local market for naturally dyed indigo cloth. In the past two decades, local indigo production for traditional textiles has declined for several reasons: Firstly, the younger generation of Landian Yao has shifted to using western style jeans and T-shirts. Secondly, due to its labor-intensive nature. In contrast, at a global scale, including in China, there has been a revival of interest in natural indigo use. This is due to a growing awareness in the fashion industry about human and environmental health issues related to synthetic dye production. Ironically, this new awareness comes at a time when traditional knowledge of indigo dyeing is being lost in many places in China, with weaving and use of natural dyes now limited to some remote areas. In this study, we recorded indigo dyeing processes used by Landian Yao people and documented the plant species used for indigo dyeing.MethodsField surveys were conducted to the study area from September 2015 to November 2016, supplemented by follow-up visits in July 2018 and November 2018. We interviewed 46 key informants between 36 and 82 years old who still continued traditional indigo dyeing practices. Most were elderly people. Semi-structured interviews were used. During the field study, we kept a detailed account of the methods used by Landian Yao dyers. The data were then analyzed by using utilization frequency to determine the best traditional recipe of indigo dye extraction. All the specimens of documented species were collected and deposited at the herbarium of Kunming Institute of Botany.ResultsOur results showed that indigo dyeing was divided into two main steps: (1) indigo pigment extraction and (2) dyeing cloth. The general procedures of indigo dye extraction included building or buying a dye vat, fermentation, removal of the leaves of indigo producing plant species, addition of lime, oxygenation, followed by collection, and the storage of the indigo paste. The procedures of dyeing cloth included preparing the dye solutions, dyeing cloth, washing, and air drying. It is notable that Landian Yao dyers formerly only performed the dyeing process on the goat days in the lunar calendar from June to October. After comparing the range of local indigo extraction methods, our results showed that the following was best of these traditional recipes: a indigo-yielding plant material to tap water ratio of 30 kg: 200 l, lime 3 kg, a fermentation time of 2–3 d, aeration by agitation for up to 60 min, and a precipitation time of 2–3 h. Our results show that 17 plant species in 11 families were recorded in the indigo dyeing process. With the exception of the indigo sources, only Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour. and Artemisia argyi H.Lév. & Vaniot were previously recorded in dyeing processes. Other species given in this paper are recorded for the first time in terms of their use in the indigo dyeing process. In the study area, Landian Yao men were in charge of indigo dye extraction, and the women were responsible for dyeing cloth.ConclusionsThe Landian Yao has completely mastered the traditional indigo dyeing craft and are one of the well-deserved identity blues. Indigo production from plants using traditional methods is a slow process compared to synthetic dyes and is not suitable for modern and rapid industrial production. Therefore, our study records the detailed information of traditional indigo dyeing to protect and inherit it. Strobilanthes cusia (Nees) Kuntze is the main indigo source in Landian Yao that is widely used in the world and can be commercially exploited as an indigo plant. For commercial and environment benefits, we suggest that producing natural indigo for the commercial market is a good choice.

The term "Persian Qīng Dài", first appeared in the Tang Dynasty, was used mainly for textiles-dyeing, eyebrows-darkening and hair-dyeing. It was also used as medicine orally taken for clearing heat, removing toxins, cooling blood and hemostasis. However, its botanical origin and its differences from native Qīng Dài have been debated for ages. This paper collated historical literature with ancient methods reduction and clarified the original plant, provenance and manufacturing process of Persian Qīng Dài. It was found that Persian Qīng Dài was, in fact, foreign indigo "flowers" derived from Indigofera tinctoria L. (wood-indigo), rather than from mactra clam powder or other sources. Indigofera tinctoria possesses distinct advantages as an indigo-yielding species; the indigo produced was superior to that obtained from the Chinese native plants Baphicacanthus cusia, Polygonum tinctorium and Isatis indigotica. Historical Persian Qīng Dài was probably introduced from India, where traditional indigo manufacture relied on Indigofera tinctoria and employed steeping and oxidation with little lime. It is recommended that Indigofera tinctoria be reinstated as a legitimate botanical source of Qīng Dài in the Pharmacopoeia of the People's Republic of China, and that Chinese production be improved by adopting the Indian steeping-oxidation process.

This paper is a comparative analysis of the <TEX>$19^{th}$</TEX> century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

Decoding indigo: the chromosome-scale genome of Strobilanthes cusia a highly pigmented plant important to diverse ethnic cultures in Asia.

Indigo is one of the blue natural dyes used by batik crafts and the textile industries. Indigo is obtained by taking dye from the Strobilanthes cusia plants. The growth of them in Indonesia are abundant, especially in Temanggung Regency. This study aimed to determine the effect of Strobilanthes cusia young leaves size on the indigo color and the effect of maceration time on the indigo color. The process of taking indigo dye consisted of chopping young leaves with various sizes (0,5;1;2;3;4;5 cm; and not chopped), maceration using water solvent at room temperature with varying time (2;3; 4; 5; 6; 24; 48; and 72 hours), and the separation of the filtrate from residue. The results of the experiment based on the physical appearance showed that there were differences in the color density and the sediment appearance. To determine indigo color, the experimental results were analyzed using a UV-Vis spectrophotometer at wavelength of 409 nm. The optimum conditions were obtained maceration time of 72 hours, leaves size of 0.5 cm and the highest absorbance value of 18.45. To determine indirubin color, the experimental results were analyzed at wavelength of 678 nm. The optimum conditions were obtained maceration time of 72 hours, leaves size of 0.5 cm, and the highest absorbance value of 7.575. The high absorbance value indicates that the concentration of indigo dye in the Strobilanthes cusia leaves is also the highest according to Lambert Beer's Law. Strobilanthes cusia has potential as a natural dye with indigo and indirubin colors.

Indirubin, a component of Ban-Lan-Gen, activates CYP3A4 gene transcription through the human pregnane X receptor

The protection and popularization of culture becomes actual because there are danger of wars, armed interventions, natural disasters, large tourist flows, active reconstruction of cities. The pre­servation of the world heritage is one of the main directions of UNESCO’s activity. Organization adopted Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage in 1972. According this Convention the World Heritage Committee was founded which compiles updates and publishes World Heritage List. China has joined the cooperation work to protect the world heritage of humanity. The state adopted Convention in 1985. The country was a member of the World Heritage Committee (1991–1997, 1999–2005, 2007–2011, 2017–2021). Special attention was given Chinese cultural and natural sites in the UNESCO World Heritage List in article. Today there are 56. They are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List according to criteria. Chinese cultural and natural sites are unique, special, beautiful cultural, natural and mixed sites. Heritage represents the history, philosophy, religion, identity of country. Chine introduces the world to its own culture, draws attention to the problems of heritage protection. The author studies the cooperation between China and UNESCO in the direction of world heritage preservation, which includes different projects, activities, exchange of experience with other countries. Protection, conservation, authenticity, integrity, principles and process of preservation, cultural diversity, reconstruction, management, presentation, tourism management, and training are important problems in relationship between China and UNESCO. Author outlines China’s contribution to the preservation of cultural and natural heritage, measures to improve the protection of sites, activities with other countries to protect world heritage. The perspectives of cooperation between the China and UNESCO of the nomination of new objects to the World Heritage List have been determined.

The World Heritage List of UNESCO : an Approach Through the Information System. The list, the preferred tool for the classification and management of cultural heritage, now seems threatened by the emergence of new complex, dispersed and interconnected heritage objects. This article aims to explore the transformation of the list facing these new objects through the analysis of the exemplary case of the World Heritage List of UNESCO. To study this case, we use the methodology of the “reverse knowledge engineering”. Through the observation of the information system of the World Heritage Centre, we identify the mechanisms that underlie the selection of World Heritage and the solutions that the World Heritage List sets up to deal with the enlargement process of cultural heritage.

Identification of orcein and selected natural dyes in 14th and 15th century liturgical paraments with high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to the electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI/MS/MS)

The aim of this study was to elucidate some fundamental variables for applying baker’s yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) to natural indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) dyeing. The variables of pH control, bath reuse, scale-up of reduction bath, and repeat dyeing were chosen for this study. The reducing power was evaluated based on the oxidation-reduction potential (ORP), and the color yield (K/S value) of ramie fabric dyed. When the pH was not controlled, K/S higher than 12 lasted for only 3 days. With pH control, the duration was extended to 29–36 days. By supplementing yeast at the end of reduction, the reducing power was revived for approximately 30 days. A deeper and darker blue color was obtained for all fabrics, including cotton, ramie, wool, and nylon 6, by repeat dyeing than by one-time dyeing. Additionally, wool and nylon 6 showed broader blue color spectra than cotton and ramie. With pH control and repeated dyeing in the scale-up bath, yeast reduction could be developed into a microbial indigo dyeing process as an alternative to conventional chemical reduction.

Isatis tinctoria is a member of the Cruciferae. Woad (Isatis tinctoria) is a hardy biennial plant native to Turkey. It is a source of the blue dye chemical, indigotin. It produces a substance in its leaves called isatan B which, when exposed to the air, forms blue. Isatan B can easily be removed from the leaves by boiling them in water and indigo formed by making an alkaline solution, a process used by home dyers today. In this research, morphological and agricultural characteristics of Isatis tinctoria were studied under Cukurova Conditions such as plant height, number of stem, 1000 seed weight, seed weight per plant, the number of pedicel, the number of seed per plant, fruit weight per plant, the number of fruit per plant leaf length, and wide, fruit length and wide.