Palmitoleic (16:1 n−7) Acid and Skin Health: Functional Roles and Opportunities for Topical and Oral Product Applications

Sebaceous glands are intriguing glands that are found throughout the human body except on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. The true function of these glands has yet to be determined, but there are several theories, including antioxidant effects, antibacterial effects, and transport of pheromones. Sebaceous glands produce lipids that are involved in the pathogenesis of one of the most prevalent diseases of adolescence, acne. Although the majority of lipids produced by the sebaceous gland are also produced in other areas of the body, there are two that are characteristic of the sebaceous gland, wax esters and squalene. This review seeks to present an update on the physiology of the sebaceous glands, with particular emphasis on the production of sebaceous lipids.

Integral Lipid in Human Hair Follicle

Sebum is a complex lipid mixture that is synthesized in sebaceous glands and excreted on the skin surface. The purpose of this study was the comprehensive detection of the intact lipids that compose sebum. These lipids exist as a broad range of chemical structures and concentrations. Sebum was collected with SebuTape(TM) from the foreheads of healthy donors, and then separated by HPLC on a C8 stationary phase with sub 2 µm particle size. This HPLC method provided high resolution and excellent reproducibility of retention times (RT). Compound mining was performed with time of flight (TOF) and triple quadrupole (QqQ) mass spectrometers (MS), which allowed for the classification of lipids according to their elemental composition, degree of unsaturation, and MS/MS fragmentation. The combination of the two MS systems detected 95 and 29 families of triacylglycerols (TAG) and diacylglycerols (DAG), respectively. Assignment was carried out regardless of positional isomerism. Among the wax esters (WE), 28 species were found to contain the 16:1 fatty acyl moiety. This method was suitable for the simultaneous detection of squalene and its oxygenated derivative. A total of 9 cholesterol esters (CE) were identified and more than 48 free fatty acids (FFA) were detected in normal sebum. The relative abundance of each individual lipid within its own chemical class was determined for 12 healthy donors. In summary, this method provided the first characterization of the features and distribution of intact components of the sebum lipidome.

Exploratory in vivo biophysical studies of stratum corneum lipid organization in human face and arm skin

Reply

The importance of long-chain alkanes and free fatty acids present in leaf surface waxes of two Commelinaceae rice-field weeds, Commelina benghalensis L. and Murdannia nudiflora (L.) Brenan, was evaluated as short-range attractant and oviposition stimulant in the Lema praeusta (Fab.) (Coleoptera: Chrysomelidae). Surface waxes were extracted by dipping leaves in n-hexane for 1 min at 27 ± 1 °C. Thin-layer chromatography, gas chromatography–mass spectrometry, and gas chromatography–flame ionization detection analyses of n-hexane extracts revealed 20 n-alkanes from C14 to C36 and 13 free fatty acids from C12:0 to C22:0. Pentacosane and palmitoleic acid were predominant among n-alkanes and free fatty acids, respectively. Females showed attraction to one leaf equivalent surface wax of both weeds against the control solvent (petroleum ether) in Y-tube olfactometer bioassays. However, the insect could not discriminate between one leaf equivalent surface waxes of two weeds, suggesting that both weeds were equally attractive to females. Among all identified alkanes and fatty acids, females showed attraction towards individual docosane, tricosane, pentacosane and heptacosane, and tridecanoic acid, palmitoleic acid, linoleic acid, and arachidic acid, resembling in amounts as present in one leaf equivalent surface wax of C. benghalensis and M. nudiflora, respectively. A synthetic blend of either docosane, tricosane, pentacosane, and heptacosane, resembling in amounts as present in one leaf equivalent surface wax of C. benghalensis, or tridecanoic acid, palmitoleic acid, linoleic acid, and arachidic acid, resembling in amounts as present in one leaf equivalent surface wax of M. nudiflora, served as short-range attractant and oviposition stimulant in L. praeusta.

This research has been done regarding to the identification avocado oil (Persea americana.Mill) composition as raw material of cosmetic industry. The usage of the avocado in the West Sumatera is still limited, meanwhile, it has two functions which never known by people. It concerns about the amount of the flesh of avocado and the useness for staple and cosmetics. In this research, the researcher will choose high-yielding variety and local variety in Solok, West Sumatera. This is caused by Solok has a good potential which has a plenty of avocados per year which shown by the statistics Plants of food and Holticulture from West Sumatera at 2012 that Solok has a sharp amount of the production Avocado around 27.281 ton per year. In this research, the oil that is gotten by the process of extraction at the solvent uses a dark-green soxhlet. Then it will be achieved some amount of avocado oils from high -yielding variety at 5,31% and 16,11% on local variety from a wet-basis. On the other hand, it will be then achieved the characteristics of physic-chemistry from the extraction. The composition of fatty acid in the arrangement of Trigliserida can be found by making an early derivation by processing of Methyl Ester. This research shows that a high yielding veriety consists of caprilate acid (1,68%), caprate acid (1,93%), laurate acid (8,62%), miristate acid (3,92%), palmitate acid (20,53%), palmitoleate acid (1,08%), stearate acid (5,61%), oleate acid (26,34%), linolenate acid (4,59%). Baside that, for the local variety consists of caprilate acid (0,92%), laurate acid(9,41%), miristate acid (4,00%), palmitate acid (14,44%), palmitoleate acid (0,84%), oleate acid (14,81%), linolenate acid (1,36%), with the total of Trigliserida component from the avocado oil at 73,85% and 45,78% for a local avocado oil. At the result, the highest percentage of fatty acid is oleate acid, basides, the composition of laurate and palmitate acid is big enough while both fatty acid of high-yielding and local variety come to a laurin-palmito-olein.

Our in-house human skin equivalents contain all stratum corneum (SC) barrier lipid classes, but have a reduced level of free fatty acids (FAs), of which a part is mono-unsaturated. These differences lead to an altered SC lipid organization and thereby a reduced barrier function compared to human skin. In this study, we aimed to improve the SC FA composition and, consequently, the SC lipid organization of the Leiden epidermal model (LEM) by specific medium supplements. The standard FA mixture (consisting of palmitic, linoleic and arachidonic acids) supplemented to the medium was modified, by replacing protonated palmitic acid with deuterated palmitic acid or by the addition of deuterated arachidic acid to the mixture, to determine whether FAs are taken up from the medium and are incorporated into SC of LEM. Furthermore, supplementation of the total FA mixture or that of palmitic acid alone was increased four times to examine whether this improves the SC FA composition and lipid organization of LEM. The results demonstrate that the deuterated FAs are taken up into LEMs and are subsequently elongated and incorporated in their SC. However, a fourfold increase in palmitic acid supplementation does not change the SC FA composition or lipid organization of LEM. Increasing the concentration of the total FA mixture in the medium resulted in a decreased level of very long chain FAs and an increased level of mono-unsaturated FAs, which lead to deteriorated SC lipid properties. These results indicate that SC lipid properties can be modulated by specific medium supplements.

This letter presents our first results in using the benefit of selective deuteration in neutron diffraction studies on stratum corneum (SC) lipid model systems. The SC represents the outermost layer of the mammalian skin and exhibits the main skin barrier. It is essential for studying drug penetration through the SC to know the internal structure and hydration behaviour on the molecular level. The SC intercellular matrix is mainly formed by ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and long-chain free fatty acids (FFA). Among them, CHOL is the most abundant individual lipid, but a detailed knowledge about its localisation in the SC lipid matrix is still lacking. The structure of the quaternary SC lipid model membranes composed of either CER[AP]/CHOL-D6/palmitic acid (PA)/cholesterol sulphate (ChS) or CER[AP]/CHOL-D7/PA/ChS is characterized by neutron diffraction. Neutron diffraction patterns from the oriented samples are collected at the V1 diffractometer of the Hahn-Meitner-Institute, Berlin, measured at 32 degrees C, 60% humidity and at different D2O contents. The neutron scattering length density profile in the direction normal to the surface is restored by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The analysis of scattering length density profile is a suitable tool for investigating the internal structure of the SC lipid model membranes. The major finding is the experimental proof of the CHOL localisation in SC model membrane by deuterium labelling at prominent positions in the CHOL molecules.

TNF-α and Th2 Cytokines Induce Atopic Dermatitis–Like Features on Epidermal Differentiation Proteins and Stratum Corneum Lipids in Human Skin Equivalents

Azone® induced fluidity in human stratum corneum. A fourier transform infrared spectroscopy investigation using the perdeuterated analogue

The multiple protective functions of the skin derive from the interactions between epithelial skin and immune cells as well as the commensal microbiota. Developed in the last trimester of intra-uterine life, the skin barrier adapts dynamically after birth. Specific differences in the structure and physiology have been disclosed between infant and adult skin. The stratum corneum of infants is thinner and structured by thicker corneocytes with a more anisotropic surface in comparison to adult skin. Lower levels of the natural moisturizing factor and its constituents, together with the increased protease activity in the epidermis result in dry baby skin and ongoing adaptation of the desquamation to the extra-uterine environment. Infant epidermis is characterized by an accelerated proliferation rate and clinically competent permeability barrier in term neonates, despite the higher baseline values of transepidermal water loss in infants. The skin surface of newborns is less acidic, which could increase susceptibility to diaper and atopic dermatitis. Immediately after birth, skin is colonized by commensal bacteria-a process dependent on the mode of delivery and of major importance for the maturation of the immune system. Skin bacterial diversity and dysbiosis have been related to different pathology such as atopic and seborrheic dermatitis. This paper focuses on the ongoing structural, functional and biochemical adaptation of the human skin barrier after birth. We discuss the interactions on the 'skin barrier/ microbiota/ immune system' axis and their role in the development of competent functional integrity of the epidermal barrier.

Non-ionic emulsifiers are commonly found in existing pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and have been widely employed to enhance the penetration and permeation of active ingredients into the skin. With the potential of disrupting skin barrier function and increasing fluidity of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, we herein examined the effects of two kinds of non-ionic emulsifiers on intercellular lipids of skin, using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with lipid signals on skin CRS spectrum. Non-ionic emulsifiers of polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and sorbitan fatty acid esters were studied to obtain a deep understanding of the mechanism between non-ionic emulsifiers and SC lipids. Emulsifier solutions and dispersions were prepared and applied onto excised porcine skin. Water and sodium laureth sulfate solution (SLS) served as controls. SC lipid signals were analysed by CRS regarding lipid content, conformation and lateral packing order. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) sorbitan esters revealed no alteration of intercellular lipid properties while PEG-20 ethers appeared to have the most significant effects on reducing lipid content and interrupting lipid organization. In general, the polyoxyethylene chain and alkyl chain of PEG derivative emulsifiers might indicate their ability of interaction with SC components. HLB values remained critical for complete explanation of emulsifier effects on skin lipids. With this study, it is possible to characterize the molecular effects of non-ionic emulsifiers on skin lipids and further deepen the understanding of enhancing substance penetration with reduced skin barrier properties and increased lipid fluidity.

Human skin acts as a protective barrier between the body and the external environment. Skin microbiome and intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC) are essential for maintaining skin barrier function. However, the interplay between skin bacteria and the lipids is not fully understood. In this study, we characterized the skin microbiome and SC lipid profiles from the forearm and face in a cohort of 57 healthy participants. 16S rRNA gene sequencing showed the skin microbial composition is significantly different between body locations and genders. Female forearm samples have the highest microbial diversity. The relative abundance of Staphylococcus hominis, Micrococcus luteus, Corynebacterium tuberculostearicum, Finegoldia magna, and Moraxellaceae sp. are significantly higher in the forearm than the face. The predictive functional analysis of 16S rRNA gene sequencing by Phylogenetic Investigation of Communities by Reconstruction of Unobserved States (PICRUSt2) and ANCOM-BC showed different bacterial metabolic pathway profiles between body locations or genders, and identified 271 differential pathways, including arginine and polyamine biosynthesis, chorismate biosynthesis pathways, which are more abundant in the female forearm, and sulfur oxidation pathway, which is more abundant in the male face. The SC lipid profiles differ between the body locations as well. Total free fatty acids (FFA), cholesterol sulfate and sphingosine are more abundant in the face. Dihydro-/6-hydroxy/phyto-ceramides are more abundant in the forearm. The correlation analysis of 16S rRNA gene sequencing and lipids revealed novel interplay between the bacteria and skin lipids. Shannon entropy and S. hominis negatively correlated with FFA, cholesterol sulfate and sphingosine; while positively correlated with dihydro-/6-hydroxy/phyto-ceramides. The correlation of predictive pathway profiles and lipids identified pathways involved in amino acids metabolism, carbohydrates degradation, aromatic compounds metabolism and fatty acid degradation metabolism are positively correlated with dihydro-/6-hydroxy/phyto-ceramides and negatively correlated with FFA, cholesterol sulfate and sphingosine. This study provides insights on the potential correlation between skin microbiome and lipids.

Avocado oil is excellent functional oil. Effects of three extraction methods (squeezing extraction, supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, and aqueous extraction) on the species, composition, and contents of lipids in avocado oil were analyzed via ultra-performance liquid chromatography–time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-TOF-MS/MS), and the differential components of lipids were revealed by OrthogonalPartialLeast Squares-DiscriminantAnalysis (OPLS-DA), S-plot combined with variable importance in the projection (VIP). The results showed that the fatty acid composition of avocado oil mainly consisted of oleic acid (36–42%), palmitic acid (25–26%), linoleic acid (14–18%), and palmitoleic acid (10–12%). A total of 134 lipids were identified first from avocado oil, including 122 glycerides and 12 phospholipids, and the total number of carbon atoms contained in the fatty acid side chains of the lipids was 32–68, and the number of double bonds was 0–9. Forty-eight differential lipid compounds with significant effects of the three extraction methods on the lipid composition of avocado oil were excavated, among which the differences in triglycerides (TG), phosphatidylethanol (PEtOH), and phosphatidylmethanol (PMeOH) contents were highly significant, which provided basic data to support the subsequent guidance of avocado oil processing, quality evaluation, and functional studies.