Abstract
This paper considers storm waves generated locally over deep water and travelling into shoaling water. The offshore (deepwater) spectrum is assumed to be of the JONSWAP form, which is approximated by the Phillips spectrum with the same H mo . This is carried ashore assuming that breaking operates to produce a constant spatial steepness. The resulting formula for H mo as a function of depth is simple, and is shown to agree well with values computed from the TMA spectrum, which is the finite-depth equivalent of the JONSWAP spectrum. The result can be used to predict 50-year maximum waveheight in finite depth, or the actual nearshore waveheight in a storm using offshore predictions from a wave forecasting model. The theory has been tested against data taken off Holderness on the Yorkshire coast in two depths. The predictions of H mo are remarkably accurate, and are apparently robust against the actual form of the spectrum not being quite as assumed. The measured spectra in the storms approximate to the TMA formula when they are under active local generation.
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