Morphological and statistical analysis of the impact of breakwaters under construction on a sand spit area (Douro River estuary)

Abstract

The area of Cabedelo sand spit, located at the mouth of Douro River estuary (Porto, Portugal), reduced in recent decades. In order to study its evolution and also the impact of two breakwaters built to fix the river entrance, a dataset from 23 trimestral surveys using differential GPS techniques, conducted between 2001 and 2007, were considered. A time-series analysis and the estimation of relationships between Cabedelo spit area and several hydrodynamic parameters through statistical techniques were performed in order to determine which parameters have more influence in the Cabedelo spit behavior. From the time-series analysis a seasonal tendency is visible, with the lower values occurring in December and the higher values occurring in July. The estimation of a relationship between Cabedelo spit area and several independent variables reached better results when the dataset was divided in Part A (before the beginning of breakwaters construction) and Part B (during the breakwaters construction). An analysis of the morphological evolution of Cabedelo spit shoreline was also performed: (1) a simple analysis of retreat and accretion rates data with a geographical information system and (2) a more exhaustive analysis were performed using Empirical Orthogonal Functions (EOFs). The Cabedelo spit shoreline erosion occurs mostly on the West and North side, and the accretion mostly occurs in the area protected by the South breakwater. During the breakwater’s construction, the Cabedelo spit shoreline presented high retreat rates, with a mean value greater than 100 m. In terms of spatial variance (EOFs analysis), when the dataset was divided in two parts, the first Principal Component (PC) represents 60.10 % and 89.86 % of the mean squared value of the data, for Part A and Part B, respectively. As proved, the breakwaters would tend to stabilize the coastline leading to a higher first PC value after breakwaters construction (Part B).