Modelling of wave–current interactions at the mouths of the Danube

Abstract

The target of the present study is the entrance to the Danube Delta in the Black Sea. The wave conditions in this coastal sector are usually significant from an energetic point of view and the relatively strong currents induced there by the outflow from the Danube lead to interactions between waves and currents. This process modifies considerably both the magnitude and direction waves, affecting also coastal navigation and sediment transport patterns. In order to assess the effects of the wave–current interactions, the simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) model was considered for developing a multilevel wave prediction system. Validations against measured data were carried out for each computational level. Five case studies corresponding to the most relevant patterns of the environmental matrix were analyzed. Finally, in order to assess the current effect for a longer timescale, an analysis concerning the variation of the main wave parameters was performed for a 3-month period considering some reference points. The results show that the currents produce considerable changes in the wave field, especially as regards the significant wave heights, mean wave directions and wavelengths. The Benjamin–Feir index was also estimated. The analysis of the variation induced by the current over this spectral shape parameter indicates that, in certain conditions, in the target area the wave heights cannot be considered Rayleigh distributed and freak waves may also occur.