Living cultural heritage and materiality in natural dyeing

Handbook of Natural Colorants

All modern lifestyles such as unhealthy eating patterns and lack of exercise can trigger the accumulation of free radicals in the human body, where the human body cannot neutralize these free radicals fast enough because of the large number of free radicals that have accumulated in it. Therefore, antioxidant compounds need to be consumed to suppress free radicals. In this study, mulberry is promoted as a natural, functional, and dye source that has been explored for further applications in food and beverages. This research aims to develop natural coloring products from mulberry fruit through extraction and encapsulation processes. Furthermore, hedonic testing was also carried out to determine the panelist's preference level for jelly products using mulberry fruit dyes. Mulberry fruit is extracted, encapsulated by freeze drying method, and processed into a natural dye in jelly products. Mulberry fruit extract contains vitamin C 4.1 g/ml, anthocyanin content of 215.16 mg/L, and antioxidant activity of 73.25. Mulberry encapsulates can be used as a natural dye in jelly products. Based on hedonic testing, jelly products made from natural dyes have superior taste and texture. Further development of natural mulberry fruit encapsulated dyes needs to be done to increase solubility, color sharpness, aroma and color stability

The consumers' perception and emotional profile (using emojis) about different dyes labeled in kefir packages were evaluated. The products were natural (KN, nonflavored, and without dye), and acerola‐flavored with artificial dye (KCA), natural dye (KCN), or acerola‐residue dye (KCR). Furthermore, the consumer's knowledge and attitudes about dyes were evaluated. KN, KCN, and KCR showed higher perceived acceptability, healthiness, security, and purchase intent than KCA and were associated with positive emoji. In addition, KCN and KN showed a more positive emotional profile than KCA. KCR improved the products' emotional profile compared to KCA and was characterized by a happy emoji. Consumers demonstrated good knowledge about dyes' utilization, cost, and stability, but they believe artificial dyes have health risks. It is concluded that artificial dyes contributed negatively to consumer perception and emotional profile, while natural and residue dyes have a good receptivity. The emoji utilization enabled differentiation among kefir with similar perceived acceptability.Practical applicationsThis study is the first to evaluate the impact of artificial, natural, or residue dyes on the consumer perception of kefir, a fermented beverage with proven health effects. The artificial dye was perceived negatively by consumers and resulted in an emotional profile characterized by negative emoji. On the contrary, the natural and residue dyes had a positive perception and good emotional receptivity by consumers. The consumers presented positive attitudes to replace artificial dyes with natural dyes and pointed out the natural ones as tastier, healthier, and safer. They also demonstrated to be open to new natural dyes. These results indicate that the dairy industry could better explore alternative sources of natural dyes to replace synthetic dyes. We also emphasize how emojis allowed the differentiation of samples with similar perceived acceptability, being advised its utilization to complement data from acceptance tests.

A review of history, properties, classification, applications and challenges of natural and synthetic dyes

A recent (2009–2021) perspective on sustainable color and textile coloration using natural plant resources

This Systematic Literature (SLR) identifies the studies conducted so far on developing natural dyes for textiles. Synthetic dyes are harmful to the environment as they are not naturally degradable. Using natural dyes in the textile industry is one of the solutions to reduce the environmental impact. Currently, natural dyes are primarily used in the textile and handicraft industry at the level of small and medium enterprises (SMEs), where the industry still carries out planting to extraction. If natural dyes are to be applied as textile dyes, especially batik, an industry that develops natural dyes is needed to maintain the continuity and availability of natural dyes. In this study, we conducted a systematic review to synthesize empirical knowledge relevant to the sustainability of the textile natural dye industry. The literature study used articles published between 2019-2023 in reputable journals. From the literature review results, we found that most of the studies covered the sources of natural dyes and their extraction processes, as well as the sustainability of natural dyes. The literature review found that studies on natural textile dyes still need to be developed, including how to develop natural dye agro-industry institutions to guarantee their continuity and availability.

Natural dyes and pigments could be obtained from insects, plants, and animals. Natural dyes have been utilized in the dyeing of wool, cotton, and silk since the prehistoric ages. The first applications of natural dyes on textile fibers are estimated to have started in Mesopotamia and India in 4000 BC. In these first dyeing trials, it is thought that pigments were used for dyeing process and these pigments could be easily removed from fabrics by friction and washing because of their weak mechanical bonding onto the fibers, and therefore, dyeing process was not really successful. It is thought that mordant dyeing method may have been accidentally discovered. In many countries, such as India, Egypt, Anatolia, and China, many historical natural dyed fabrics were found. One of the first synthetic dyes, mauveine (also known as aniline purple), was accidentally synthesized by W.H. Perkin (at the age of 18) in 1856 during attempts to make quinine. The discovery of the first synthetic dye changed the natural dyeing habits and synthetic dyes replaced almost all natural dyes. However, it is known that the wastewater produced in the production steps of synthetic dyes and the chemicals used in the textile dyeing process can have toxic and pollutant effects on human and environmental health. Nowadays, the effects of environmental awareness, organic products, and the tendency toward healthy lifestyle also reflect on the textile sector. Disagreements on the risks of the usage of synthetic dyestuffs and increasing environmental awareness result in an enhanced interest in natural resources, environmentally friendly products, and new strategies. That is one of the reasons why the use of natural dyes came back to the agenda due to an increased ecological and sustainable awareness. Unlike non-renewable raw materials of synthetic dyes, natural dyes are mostly renewable and sustainable. Natural dye sources are agriculturally renewable sustainable vegetable-plant-based colorant sources. In terms of sustainability, synthetic dyes are produced from non-renewable resources; however, natural dyes are extracted from renewable sources. The ability to obtain the dye from renewable natural sources makes natural dyes an attractive dye class for more sustainable world. Natural dyes can be applied on the fibers not only with dyeing method but also with printing method. Textile printing is one of the most important and versatile methods among the methods used to design and colorize textile fabrics. Ancient men and women mixed the colorants such as coal or soil paint with oils and used them with their fingers in lines on various materials. The staining of the plant extracts and fabrics has provided different approaches. The patterns can be produced by the wax applications to provide resistant dye liquor, or the surrounding areas provide a tightly attached and reserved area. The word of print is referred to a process that uses pressure to impart colorant to the material. And there is no doubt that the first textile printing was occurred by the blocks with embossed printing surfaces, then these blocks were inked and printed on the fabric. Some of the first blocks were made of clay or terracotta, while others were made of carved wood. In this chapter, the information about various eco-friendly prints and different printing techniques which were applied to different kinds of fibers and fabrics using sustainable natural dyes and natural pigments are given in detail.

Revival of natural colorants in textile dyeing is one of the important strategies to reduce synthetic chemical-based environmental pollution. The study has been conducted to explore the coloring potential of durum (Triticum durum Desf.) and bread (Triticum astivum L.) wheat husk for fabric dyeing. The results showed that both wheat species husk could be an excellent source of natural dye, if extracted in alkaline medium. It has been observed that durum wheat husk based dye worked best at 70°C with a pH 11.0 and salt concentration of 8.0 g/100 ml of solution. Similarly, alkaline extract of bread wheat husk worked better at 80°C with dyeing solution pH 9.0 and salt concentration of 8.0 g/100 ml. Bio-mordanting experiments results revealed pomegranate rind (7%) as most effective bio-mordant to obtain high color strength of wheat husk treated fabric. In chemical-mordanting, tannic acid (5%) as pre-mordant and chrome (5%) as post-mordant have improved the color strength more than all other quantities of employed mordants. FTIR analysis indicated the presence of flavonoids as major colorant compounds in wheat husk-based natural dye. Suggested ISO standards for colorfastness illustrated good color strength ratings of husk-based dyed fabric when treated with bio-mordants as compared to chemical counterparts. Hence, husk of both bread and durum wheat species has great potential to be used as source of eco-friendly natural colorant for cotton dyeing.

A colour influences our moods and emotions and generally enhances the way in which we enjoy our surround-ings. Colour is introduced into these materials using substances known as dyes and pigments. Natural dyes are colours having several applications in textiles, inks, cosmetics, etc. Nature has gifted us more than 500 dye-yielding plant species. The natural dyes offered any imaginable shade of colour, in great brilliance and with ex-act reproducibility. Natural dyes are less toxic, less polluting, less health hazardous, non-carcinogenic and non-poisonous. This paper explains the information regarding the natural colours and dyes so that they are more uti-lized by the industries for the well being of society. Keywords: Natural colours; dyes; pigments

Maintaining color fastness and endow functionality of the fabrics dyed with natural colorants had been the major constraint of natural dye in modern textile practices. In this work, a natural dye was extracted from wall nut tree wood. The dye solution extracted from wall nut tree wood showed excellent thermal stability until 100°C. The structure and functional groups of the extracted dye were investigated by FTIR. The optimum dyeing process was performed at a pH about 4.5 at 90°C for 60 min. In this experiment, three different mordants were used to make silk fabrics show different colors and can improve the color fastness of wall nut tree wood. Finally, the color fastness of wall nut tree wood dye can be further improved by using a dye-fixing agent, and solve the problem of poor color fastness of natural dyes. The dye-fixing agent formed a protective film on the surface of the dyed silk fabrics. The protective film reduced the water solubility of the wall nut tree wood dye, thereby improving the color fastness of the dyed silk fabrics. The best washing fastness reached grade 3–4, and the sunlight fastness reached grade 4. The natural wall nut tree wood dye also showed excellent UV protection properties, and the UPF value of the dyed fabric was 50 + . The wall nut tree wood was expected to become a functional natural dye in the future.

The excessive industrial use of dye producing plants has threatened the existence of these species and biodiversity. Exploration of abundantly available natural dye sources not only provide industrial benefits but also share the load of dye yielding plants. In the present study we used the inflorescence of munj sweet cane (Saccharum bengalense Retz.) to extract natural colorant for textile industry. This easily available plant is cheap source of natural colorants and good alternative of synthetic dyes. The munj sweet cane inflorescence extract and fabric was treated with microwave radiations. The dyeing aspects like temperature, time, fabrics to extract ratio, salt type and salt concentrations were optimized. Pre-and post mordanting was carried out and optimized using copper, iron, moringa and turmeric. All the samples were analyzed by spectra flash D65 10 Deg to determine the color strength (%) value. Results proved inflorescence extract of munj sweet cane (RS, two minutes) using aqueous media as a good source of natural dye. Three grams of sodium chloride as exhaustion agent was observed to be the best while 70 0C temperatures gave best colour strength. Among chemical mordants, iron proved to be good one for producing varying shades and better colour strength. Bio mordanting with turmeric was proved to be more beneficial for getting best color strength and new shades.

Along with the growing public awareness of personal and environmental health, lipa sabbe products with natural colors are increasingly popular. Natural dyes are advantageous because they do not need to be imported, are safe for human health during the manufacturing process, do not pollute the environment, and are safe. Although synthetic dyes are easier to use, they are harmful to health, produce hazardous waste, pollute the environment, and are made from imported materials. This study aims to determine the types of plants that can be used as natural dyes for lipa sabbe. Qualitative methods with literature studies sourced from journals, books, or other related scientific articles are used in this research. The results showed that natural dyes in lipa sabbe became one of the Science Learning Resources with natural dyes including extracts from cocoa shell waste, coconut fiber waste, oil palm shell waste, rambutan peel waste, mangosteen peel waste, guava leaf waste, mango leaf waste and avocado leaf waste is plantation waste that can be used as a natural lipa sabbe dye. The pigments in this material produce yellow, reddish brown, gray, and black colors.
 
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Background and objectives Plants are the main source of natural colorant as they are widely available and can be considered as zero cost dyes, as they are obtained from plants planted for other purposes. All the parts of plants are used for extracting natural color, and most of them have antimicrobial and antifungal values. The importance using of natural dye is not restricted only to its antimicrobial or other medicine value but also to its global benefit through elimination of environmental pollution, caused by usage of synthetic dyes. The disadvantage of coloring fabric with natural dye is its fastener properties, as natural dye has no affinity to the fabric. The objective of the present work is to produce an eco-friendly colored fabric produced through use of safe materials (no dyeing salts or mordant) with the aid of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The coloring component from Chelidonium majus was extracted using boiling water, and examination was done on its coloration effect on flax and silk fabrics before and after being exposed to UV radiation for both extracted dye and fabrics. Materials and methods Natural dye from UV-irradiated powder of C. majus was extracted using boiling water. The dye was used in coloration of flax and silk fabrics through dyeing process and screen printing. The effect of irradiated treatment time, dyeing bath conditions (time and temperature) as well as fixation type of printed samples has been studied. The effect of UV radiation on the morphology structure of both fabrics was illustrated by scanning electron microscope. Results and conclusion UV radiation improved the color strength (K/S) and fastness properties for both colored fabrics either dyed or printed. The optimum dyeing bath conditions used for silk and flax samples were 30°C for 30 min and 90°C for 1 h, respectively. The printed silk samples fixed by thermofixation and printed flax samples fixed using steamer have given better color strength. All dyed samples have antimicrobial properties.

Chapter 13 - Natural dyes and pigments in functional finishing

Natural dyes have been used for dyeing, painting, printing, and decoration since the dawn of time. However, with the manufacturing of synthetic dyes in the nineteenth century, it was revolutionised due to its extremely lasting properties and economic effectiveness. However, a new research highlights the negative implications of synthetic dyes, prompting people all over the world to reduce their use of synthetic dyes and focus on natural source colours, which have numerous advantages over synthetic dyes. These colours might be derived from animals, plants, minerals, or microorganisms. In this brief study, we will talk about natural colorants from an animal source and how to extract them using ancient and new methods that allow their counterparts to achieve equivalent properties.