Investigation of the effect of denim washing on surface characteristics and deformation behavior using a novel instrument
This study examined the effects of denim washing on surface and deformation properties using a Tactile Sensation Analyzer across 30 fabrics. Washing increased thickness, reduced surface variations, and improved deformability, with combined enzyme and pumice washing notably enhancing surface smoothness and tactile qualities.
In the current study, the surface characteristics and deformation behavior of raw and washed denim fabrics were investigated using Tactile Sensation Analyzer (TSA) which measures surface variations through sound analysis and determines out-of-plane deformation behavior during the deformation test phase. A total of 30 denim fabrics with various raw materials and production parameters were examined. Two different denim washing processes were applied to the raw denim fabrics, one involving cellulase enzyme and the other combined with pumice stones. The effects of washing on structural properties, surface characteristics, deformation, elasticity, hysteresis, plasticity, and tactile comfort were analyzed. The results indicated that denim washing significantly increased the thickness and decreased the magnitude of micro-surface variations across all tested samples, and most fabrics exhibited a less rigid structure after washing. It was detected that enzyme washing has a moderate effect on fabric properties. Meanwhile, the combination of cellulase enzyme and pumice stones resulted in significant improvements in surface smoothness, fullness, unit mass, deformability, elasticity and total hand scores.
- Research Article
1
- 10.1108/prt-11-2024-0117
- Aug 6, 2025
- Pigment & Resin Technology
Purpose This study aims to investigate the deterioration of pumice stones during denim washing processes, including acid, enzyme and bleach washes, with a focus on the impact of stone size (small, medium and large) on denim fabric aesthetics and performance. It also checks whether it is possible to reuse pumice stones and how they affect the quality of the fabric and the effluent by looking at things such as turbidity, total dissolved solids (TDS) and total suspended solids (TSS). This research seeks to optimize stone selection to enhance sustainability in denim washing while minimizing environmental impacts. Design/methodology/approach Several parameters were investigated to understand the effects of different stone wash processes on denim fabric and effluent quality. Fabric parameters included weight (g/m2), tensile strength, color fastness, shrinkage and colorimetric values (L*, a* and b*), which varied based on stone size and wash type. In addition, effluent quality assessments focused on TDS, TSS, turbidity and pH levels. Stone properties such as porosity, hardness and compressive strength were also measured to evaluate the impact of repeated washes and stone erosion on wash effectiveness. Findings This study reveals that small stones in acid washes increase fabric GSM, whereas large stones in enzyme and bleach washes reduce tensile strength and enhance the vintage appearance of denim. Bleach washes lead to higher TDS levels, and the reuse of pumice stones raises TSS and turbidity. However, enzyme washes with reused stones demonstrate superior results in terms of fabric aesthetics and properties. These findings emphasize the importance of optimizing stone selection to enhance denim washing outcomes while minimizing environmental impacts. This research recommends that enzyme-washed stones can be safely reused up to three times, ultimately reducing raw material costs by 33%. Originality/value This study evaluates denim washing processes on pumice stones, effluent quality and washed stretch denim fabric. It explores reusing pumice stones, offering cost reduction and sustainable practices. The methodology reveals the relationship between stone properties, wash outcomes and environmental effects.
- Research Article
10
- 10.1016/j.mechmat.2011.02.008
- Feb 23, 2011
- Mechanics of Materials
Micromechanism of surface and sub-surface deformation behavior of high density polyethylene containing dispersion of nanoparticles: An electron microscopy study and indenter-substrate interaction
- Research Article
35
- 10.1177/0040517519840634
- Apr 11, 2019
- Textile Research Journal
Despite the fact that the tactile comfort of a garment is an important criterion that determines consumers' preferences and has been investigated for almost a century by many researchers, the number of studies regarding tactile comfort of denim fabrics is limited. The aim of this study is to propose suggestions to enhance the tactile comfort of denim fabrics and investigate their efficiency in terms of low-stress mechanical properties and sensory evaluation results. For this purpose, the compressibility, extension ability, bending rigidity and shear rigidity of 51 denim fabrics were experimentally determined. Meanwhile, stiffness–softness, roughness–smoothness and tactile comfort scores were evaluated by consumers and specialists via sensory tests. The effects of the raw material, blend ratio, weaving parameters and washing processes were statistically investigated. Low-stress mechanical properties, particularly biaxial and multiaxial ones, were found to be highly related to the perceived tactile comfort. Statistical investigations highlighted that stone washing is the most effective method to improve the tactile comfort. Nonetheless, the effect of enzyme washing was relatively small. It was observed that the suggested weaving parameters provide a significant improvement in fabric properties. Increasing the ratio of viscose content in polyester/viscose blend weft yarns was quite effective as well.
- Research Article
9
- 10.1108/ijcst-10-2014-0123
- Nov 2, 2015
- International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings. Design/methodology/approach – To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics wer...
- Research Article
- 10.1007/s11356-025-37138-0
- Nov 15, 2025
- Environmental science and pollution research international
Denim washing is a long-standing process used to create the fashionable and comfortable denim fabric. However, as sustainability becomes a growing concern, industry experts have turned to innovative techniques to reduce the environmental impact and pollution effect of denim manufacturing. One such method is the use of anhydrous enzymes in the washing process, along with incorporating recycled fiber into denim production to minimize waste. The aim of this paper is to examine the impact of these enzymes on the properties of denim fabric that contains recycled cotton fibers. These results will be compared to the effects of stone washing. The novelty is to produce the effect given by pumice using recycled fibers with minimal degradation minimizing treatment steps, environmental impact, then the impact on workers. To evaluate the factors involved in optimizing the anhydrous washing process (percentage of recycled cotton fibers, enzyme concentration, and enzyme type), a full factorial experimental design was conducted. This method gives more analysis of the effect of several factors. These experiments were carried out using the E-flow machine that consumes a few water quantities. Various properties such as tear strength, tensile strength, change of color shade, and thickness were evaluated. The results indicate that this type of treatment produces the desired effect with minimal losses, while also offering significant economic, energy, and environmental benefits.
- Research Article
7
- 10.4028/www.scientific.net/amr.933.175
- May 1, 2014
- Advanced Materials Research
Denim is one important clothing product recently in the market. However, the original solid blue colour is not attractive to the consumers and hence many manufacturers are trying to remove part of the blue colour from the denim fabric surface. This fading effect could impart fade-look or worn out effect in the final products which made it becomes popular to the consumers. There are different methods to achieve the colour fading effect in which enzyme washing is one of the simplest methods to be used in the industry. Although the enzyme washing is a good method for colour fading of denim, the process involves the use of chemical as well as temperature which may introduce certain degree of damage in denim fabric. Thus, this paper will investigate the effect of enzyme washing on the tensile property of denim fabric under different treatment duration.
- Research Article
3
- 10.19044/esj.2019.v15n12p300
- Apr 30, 2019
- European Scientific Journal ESJ
Denim industry is one of the largest in the global market due to its exotic fashion trend. Bangladesh is the largest exporter of denim products over the European market and just after China in worldwide production. Fashion sense in denim fabric is drastically increasing due to the introduction of multiple washing methods. It is a type of fabric finishing treated in a different way for the change of appearance. This paper focuses on the denim washing cost trend within the year 2010 to 2018, and it aims to find out various consequences to analyze the market status of denim washing. The study uses the primary data collected from ten leading denim washing factories in Bangladesh. The study shows that, around 2010, the trend of dry washing processes was not so familiar. Hence, around 2015, there was an extensive practice executed which dominates the conventional wet washing technologies. On the contrary, process like sandblasting got banned from around 2013 because of its harmful effects on workers and users. Besides, various expensive wet washing technologies like acid wash, stone enzyme wash, towel wash, brightener treatment, optical wash, etc. has been incorporated to provide quality washing effects. This paper shows the costing trend of different wash technologies. This is because the majority of the dry and wet wash technologies became more expensive with time gradually due to the increase in labor cost, utility costs, chemical, and process costs. Furthermore, it also shows that some new technologies, like laser technology, which provided effective cost with reasonable quality through the initial investments, are high. The paper gives a prediction for the upcoming trend of denim washing as well as the cost of the technologies.
- Research Article
8
- 10.17485/ijst/v13i48.1974
- Dec 30, 2020
- Indian Journal of Science and Technology
Background/Objective: Denim fabric is the most versatile dress material and acclaimed the most popular among the young generations due to its trendy looks. Since stone is being vastly used to improve the softness and comfort feeling along with fading effects, but bearing some problems. For instance, stone leads to deterioration of fabric strength, machine wear, and tear, grit deposition in the effluent plant, increasing labor cost to separate the stone powder from the pockets, and also harmful for the expensive laundry machine, etc. On the contrary, post-used rubber shoe soles are thrown or burnt which leads to ozone depletion. Therefore, this study was carried out to mitigate both the existing problems of stone washing and also this endeavor was done to find a suitable alternative of pumice stone. Methods: Washing was continued with both stones, collected rubber shoe sole against enzyme, acid, and bleaching agent. Eventually, washed garments have been tested and compared with the unwashed regular ones, based on visual appearance, degree of shade change, tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance, and weight per unit area, and crimp interchange. Findings: Result reveals the satisfactory values, but the degree of shade changes against acid has poor value due to not having the absorption ability of potassium permanganate (KMnO4). Also, the result tellsthe noise intensity is much lower (68-72 dB) compared to stonewash (89- 90dB). Introducing the aforementioned alternative in denim washing, it shows the perfect results rather than stone one without compromising the trendy looks. Keywords: Denim fabric; garments washing; physical and mechanical properties; sustainability
- Research Article
3
- 10.1108/ijcst-05-2024-0117
- Feb 11, 2025
- International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
Purpose Laser fading, commonly used in the denim industry, is a computer-controlled, dry, ecological finishing method whereas conventional methods include high water, energy and time consumption. Resolution and pixel time are crucial parameters of laser source influencing the effect of laser treatment. The purpose of this study is to determine the optimum laser parameters of CO2 laser followed by enzyme washing and to compare the tensile strength and color values of laser-treated denim fabric with that of conventional enzyme-faded. Design/methodology/approach Two different indigo-dyed, sulfur bottom-indigo-dyed and only indigo-dyed organic cotton denim fabrics with different unit weights, were lasetreated with different laser parameters and then subjected to 10 min enzyme washing. Tensile strength, abrasion resistance, and change in fabric unit weight were tested. CIE (L*a*b*, ΔE*, h°, C*) color values, color strength (K/S), yellowness and whiteness indexes were measured to identify the color differences. Color fastness tests including washing, rubbing, light, water and perspiration fastness were investigated. Findings Most effective laser fading in terms of good mechanical properties and color values was obtained at 40 dpi resolution and 300 µs pixel time. Originality/value Conventional enzyme fading of denim fabrics is a wet process and requires a long process time of 40–45 min and high temperatures, leading to high energy and water consumption. Laser fading, on the other hand, is a dry and ecological method, but causes a decrease in mechanical properties of the fabric, and an increase in yellowness. In this study, unlike the similar studies in the literature, denim fading was carried out by a combination of laser treatment followed by only 10 min enzyme washing in order to eliminate or minimize the drawbacks of the denim fading, such as high energy and water consumption for enzyme fading and decrease in mechanical properties of the fabric and increase in yellowness for laser fading. This method was applied to two different dyed denim fabrics, sulfur (bottom) and indigo (top) and laser process conditions were optimized to achieve the desired fading effects compared to conventional enzyme fading.
- Research Article
10
- 10.17485/ijst/v14i8.190
- Feb 27, 2021
- Indian Journal of Science and Technology
Denim plays a vital role in the fashion industry. But today’s fashion not only concern about its aesthetic property but also its comfortability. Objective: This study was aimed to explore the effect of different softeners on the comfort and thermal feeling properties of stretch denim fabric. Method/analysis: For the understanding of comfort, feeling, and thermal properties of stretch denim fabric in conjunction with enzyme wash and stone enzyme wash; different softeners like cationic, anionic, nonionic, micro silicone, macro silicone, and nano-silicone softeners were applied accordingly. Then water vapor permeability and comfort property tests were conducted to understand the effect of different softeners on comfort and thermal properties of stretch denim fabric. Findings: Comfort, feeling, and thermal properties of stretch denim fabric were affected by using different kinds of softeners. Enzyme and stone enzyme washed stretch denim fabric treated with silicone-based softeners illustrated better feeling performance regarding the smoothness, softness, and warmness sensation. For water vapor permeability analysis, nonionic softeners showed better performance for both cases of enzyme wash and stone enzyme wash rather than others. Furthermore, nonionic and anionic softeners displayed lower performance for thermal conductivity during compression and recovery than silicone-based and cationic softeners in context with both Enzyme wash along with stone enzyme wash treated stretch denim fabric. Novelty: This research is a novel work regarding the understanding of comfort and thermal feeling properties of stretch denim fabric by applying different softeners together with enzyme wash and stone enzyme wash. Keywords: Denim; softener; water vapor permeability; thermal conductivity; smoothness; warmness
- Research Article
- 10.1108/prt-06-2025-0061
- Oct 7, 2025
- Pigment & Resin Technology
Purpose Traditional stone enzyme washing requires significant amounts of pumice stones, raising environmental concerns like water wastage, pollution and fabric damage. This study investigates enzyme-driven denim washing as a sustainable alternative, aiming to reduce pumice stone usage while preserving fabric quality. The research focuses on comparing the effects of neutral and acidic cellulase enzymatic treatments on fabric strength, color retention and comfort. Design/methodology/approach Several parameters were investigated to understand the effects of enzyme-based denim washing techniques, using neutral and acidic cellulase treatments under varying conditions. Fabric parameters included weight (g/m²), tear and tensile strength, colorimetric values (L*, a*, b*) and hue angle, which varied based on stone quantity and enzyme type. In addition, comfort levels are assessed using a hand-feel assessment. Findings This study demonstrates that neutral cellulase treatment preserved up to 85% of the fabric’s tensile strength while reducing pumice stone usage by over 91%, from 12 kg to just 1 kg, achieving uniform and consistent color fading. In contrast, acidic cellulase treatments, although effective in dye removal, led to greater fabric degradation and uneven fading. Neutral cellulase emerged as a more sustainable and cost-effective alternative, significantly lowering water usage, minimizing fabric damage, and enhancing hand feel (comfort). This positions it as a practical solution for producing eco-friendly denim products. Originality/value This research explores enzymatic washing of denim by reducing pumice size and varying enzyme types and concentrations. It provides valuable insights into how these variables influence tensile strength, color fading, comfort and the environmental footprint, all under significantly reduced pumice usage. This innovative approach offers a balanced methodology that preserves fabric integrity while promoting eco-friendly practices, contributing meaningful advancements to sustainable denim processing.
- Research Article
18
- 10.1177/155892501701200103
- Mar 1, 2017
- Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics
Denim fabric is one of the most popular casual wear fabrics worldwide. The performance characteristics of denim fabrics have been improved by using functional fibers and elastane to make them comfortable to wear. Elastane fibers with high elasticity are used extensively in denim fabric production. Elastane fibers are generally used as the core part of the core-spun yarns as weft yarns. Besides elastane fibers; polyester and polyester derivatives are commonly used. This study examines the effects of filament fineness and yarn count on denim fabric performance. Textured polyester filaments with medium, fine and micro linear densities were used as the core part of the core-spun yarn and cotton fiber was used as sheath material. Yarn samples manufactured with the same production parameters at different yarn count were used as weft yarns of denim fabrics. Denim fabrics were produced with the same fabric cover factor to eliminate yarn count difference effects. Tensile, static tearing and dynamic tearing properties of denim fabrics were determined. To evaluate the effects of core part, 100 % cotton denim fabric was manufactured and tested. Statistical analysis was performed to analyze the significance of filament fineness and yarn count ratio. Results showed that there was a significant effect of filament fineness on tensile, static tearing and dynamic tearing properties of denim fabrics. In addition, it was found that yarn count had no significance effect on static tearing properties of denim fabrics.
- Research Article
8
- 10.1007/s12221-011-0422-8
- Jun 1, 2011
- Fibers and Polymers
The aim of this study is to develop new pattern denim fabrics and characterize the mechanical properties of these fabrics after abrasion load. Furthermore, tensile and tear strengths of these fabrics have been analysed by using the Artificial Neural Network (ANN) and statistical model. All denim fabrics were first abraded and subsequently tensile and tearing tests were applied to the abraided fabrics seperately. Actual data generated from the tests were analyzed by ANN and regression model. The regression model has shown that tensile strength properties of the abraded large structural pattern denim fabrics are generally low compared to that of the small structural pattern and traditional denim fabrics. On the other hand, when the abrasion cycles are increased tensile properties of all denim fabrics are generally decreased. Tearing strength of weft and warp in the abraded large structural pattern denim fabrics are between small structural pattern and traditional denim fabric. On the other hand, when the abrasion cycles are increased tearing strength properties in the weft and warp for all denim fabrics are generally decreased. The results from ANN and regression models were also compared with the measured values. It is concluded that almost all values from ANN are accurately predicted compared with those of the regression model. Therefore, we suggest that both methods can be used in this study as viable and reliable tools.
- Research Article
4
- 10.33552/jtsft.2020.04.000592
- Jan 16, 2020
- Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology
In recent years, as a result of the combination of textile materials with different structures and characteristics by using different production methods, yarn and fabric designs with new features have become important. In this study, the effect of cotton wrapped elastic dual core-spun yarns containing elastane and filament on the performance properties of denim fabrics was investigated. Denim fabrics were produced that used in the weft direction of cotton wrapped elastic dual core-spun yarns containing different types filaments and different ratios of elastane in the core. Performance tests conforming to the standards were applied on denim fabrics. In addition, variance and regression analyzes were carried out using the MINITAB package program to evaluate the effects on the fabric performance properties that are believed to originate from dual core-spun weft yarns. The effects of process factors on the fabric properties were expressed using mathematical models.
- Research Article
4
- 10.1080/15440478.2022.2025973
- Jan 24, 2022
- Journal of Natural Fibers
Denim fabrics are one of the important research fields in the textile industry. Super stretch denim fabrics that have more than 30% elasticity are among the hottest trends in denim fabrics recently. The entire process chain, from raw material to finished product, must be considered when developing fabrics with high stretch values. Previously, only 100% cotton yarn was used in the denim industry; however, some new generation yarn types are currently being used. Different multi-component core-spun yarns were produced and used as a weft yarn in five different denim fabrics. The study aimed to investigate the influence of fiber types used as core (EL: elastane, PBT: polybutylene terephthalate, T400®: PET/PTT) or as wrap fibers (cotton, modal, EME: Elastomeric multi ester) into the new developed core-spun yarns, on the stretch properties of denim fabrics. Experimental and statistical results show that fiber types used as core/wrappers in the multi-component weft yarns significantly affect all stretch properties of denim fabrics. Fabrics composed of weft yarn with the EL+T400® in the core and EME/CO in the wrapper gave the best results in stretch properties.