Abstract
This study aimed at investigating the effect of electrical current profile upon the iontophoretic transport of (i) ascorbic acid (AA) and (ii) ellagic acid (EA), into porcine skin in vitro, and the impact of the physicochemical properties of both actives on their mechanism of transport when formulated in cosmetic compositions. The experiments were performed using a proprietary iontophoretic device containing a roller to apply the formulation. Three current profiles were tested: (i) galvanic direct current (DC), (ii) square unipolar pulse current (SPC), and (iii) galvanic direct current (DC) + pulse current (PC). The skin samples were collected at different sampling points, extracted and analyzed by HPLC. Results suggested that the DC + PC mode for only 5 min was able to significantly increase the delivery of AA from o/w cosmetic compositions. The use of this current profile might improve the skin penetration of AA due to electromigration and passive diffusion, the latter being facilitated by the physical enhancement method. The SPC mode significantly improved the passage of EA in its neutral form from cosmetic o/w formulations by electroosmosis. Tailoring specific electrical current modes considering the ionization state of active ingredients would allow the design of short and personalized cosmetic treatments that significantly improve the penetration efficiency of the active ingredients and possibly reduce the doses applied.
Highlights
L-Ascorbic acid (AA; Vitamin C) and ellagic acid (EA) are used to decrease age-related skin problems that may negatively impact skin appearance, see Figure 1
This paper describes the effect of the short-duration application of different current profiles direct current (DC), square unipolar pulse current (SPC), and DC + pulse current (PC) using a dynamic applicator on the skin penetration of AA and EA, and the impact of the physicochemical properties of both actives when formulated in cosmetic compositions on their electrotransport
This paper describes the effect of the short-duration application of different current profiles DC, SPC, and DC + PC using a dynamic applicator on the skin penetration of AA and EA, and the impact of the physicochemical properties of both actives when formulated in cPohsamrmeatciecutcicosm20p18o, s1i0t,ixonFOs RonPEtEhReiRrEeVlIeEcWtrotransport
Summary
L-Ascorbic acid (AA; Vitamin C) and ellagic acid (EA) are used to decrease age-related skin problems that may negatively impact skin appearance, see Figure 1. HTehedudruartaiotinon anadndfrferqeuqeunecnycyofotfhtehseesepupluslesseswwereereprporgorgarmammmabalbeleanadndeneanbalbeldedcucsutsotmomiziezdeddedleivlievreyryofotfhteheacatcivtieve cocsomsmeteictiicnignrgerdeideinetnsttsotothtehseksikni.n. In summary, this paper describes the effect of the short-duration application of different current profiles DC, SPC, and DC + PC using a dynamic applicator (roll-on type) on the skin penetration of AA and EA, and the impact of the physicochemical properties of both actives when formulated in cosmetic compositions on their electrotransport. All samples were analyzed by the validated HPLC-UV methods These aimed at quantifying the electrically-assisted skin penetration of AA and EA from cosmetic formulations at a current density of 0.2 mA/cm[2] with formulation application for 5 min using three negative current application profiles, see Table 2. In the case of AA, the skin samples were cut into small pieces and placed for 1 h in an extraction medium (acetonitrile:KH2PO4 0.05 M and Na2S2O5 0.5% (75:25)) to extract the AA deposited within the membrane. At the end of the assay, the samples were kept at 4 ◦C until analysis
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