Abstract

Botanical ingredients are widely used in hair- and skin-care products. However, few studies have investigated the effectiveness of botanical products on counteracting sebum synthesis and secretion. To investigate the composition of Lotus corniculatus seed extract (LC) and its potential inhibition of lipogenesis in SZ95 sebocytes and oily human skin. The active components of LC solutions were identified by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The in vitro effects of LC were evaluated using SZ95 cells treated with linoleic acid (LA) and dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and incubated with LCs for 24 h and 72 h. Lipogenesis was assessed by Oil Red O and Nile Red staining of the cells. In vivo effects were assessed on 30 subjects with oily skin who were enrolled in a randomized, blank-controlled trial and were treated with LC solution for 6 h and 4 weeks. The skin sebum contents and area on the forehead and cheeks were evaluated using a Sebumeter SM815 and Sebfix sebutape with Visioscan VC98. In addition, VISIA was used to collect half-face photos for analysis. A novel active molecule, 5'-o-rhamnosyl uridine, was identified in LC. LC exhibited a dose-dependent inhibitory effect on LA and DHT-induced lipid synthesis. When 5% LC was applied for 3 h, the skin sebum contents and area were significantly reduced compared with the vehicle control, with an obvious reduction after 6 h. Continued use of the serum containing 5% LC for 4 weeks resulted in a significant reduction in the skin sebum contents and area. No adverse reactions were reported during the study. Topical application of LC resulted in an immediate and long-lasting reduction of the sebum contents and area of oily human skin by reducing sebaceous lipogenesis through the LA and DHT pathways. This indicates the potential of LC as a new biological treatment for oily skin.

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