Abstract
Skin aging is a biological process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The last ones, mainly exposure to UV radiation, increases reactive oxygen species (ROS) production leading to a loss of extracellular matrix, also enhanced by enzymatic degradation of matrix supporting molecules. Thus, and with the growing demand for eco-friendly skin products, natural compounds extracted from brown seaweeds revealed to be good candidates due to their broad range of bioactivities, especially as antioxidants. The aim of this study was to assess the dermo-cosmetic potential of different fractions obtained from the brown seaweed Fucus spiralis. For this purpose, in vitro antioxidant (Total Phenolic Content (TPC), 1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP), Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC)), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase), antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory (NO production) and photoprotective (ROS production) capacities were evaluated. Although nearly all fractions evidenced antioxidant effects, fraction F10 demonstrated the highest antioxidant ability (EC50 of 38.5 µg/mL, DPPH assay), and exhibited a strong effect as an inhibitor of collagenase (0.037 µg/mL) and elastase (3.0 µg/mL). Moreover, this fraction was also the most potent on reducing ROS production promoted by H2O2 (IC50 of 41.3 µg/mL) and by UVB (IC50 of 31.3 µg/mL). These bioactivities can be attributed to its high content of phlorotannins, as evaluated by LC-MS analysis, reinforcing the potential of F. spiralis for further dermatological applications.
Highlights
Skin is the mirror of health and beauty
The human body is equipped with an efficient defense machinery, physical stressors, internal factors, and an unhealthy lifestyle can contribute to a redox instability, unbalancing the antioxidant defense mechanisms and favoring reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, leading to an oxidative stress condition
The main goal of this work was to study the potential of a set of extracts from Fucus spiralis through the evaluation of their in vitro antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-enzymatic, and photoprotective properties to be applied in skin care products
Summary
The cosmetic industry represents one of the most profitable and rapidly growing business area in the world economy, essentially due to the consumers’ increasing demand for new products, with both protective and therapeutic benefits. This kind of skincare products can mediate distinct well-being and health effects such as anti-aging, anti-acne, photoprotective, wound healing, and skin whitening [1,2]. While intrinsic factors affect all organs in the same way as skin, the latter is the result of skin exposure to external factors, such as pollution and ultra violet (UV) radiation On both processes, reactive oxygen species (ROS) play a key role [3,4,5,6]. The human body is equipped with an efficient defense machinery, physical stressors (pollution, ultra violet light, etc.), internal factors (age, diseases, etc.), and an unhealthy lifestyle (poor quality diet, alcohol, smoking, etc.) can contribute to a redox instability, unbalancing the antioxidant defense mechanisms and favoring ROS production, leading to an oxidative stress condition
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