Abstract

The morphological characteristics of the cuspate forelands located in Gardiners Bay on Long Island, New York, and Ukraine Bay in the Black Sea, and a land-tied island in Vietnam were investigated. The BG model (a model for predicting three-dimensional beach changes based on Bagnold’s concept) was used to predict the development of a cuspate foreland, when an island is located offshore of the cuspate foreland and waves are incident from two opposite directions. It was found that a cuspate foreland elongates toward the lee of the island owing to the wave-sheltering effect of an island. The formation of a land-tied island when five islands and two sand sources are located on opposite shores was also predicted using the BG model.

Highlights

  • A sand spit is a dynamically changing type of topography protruding into the sea and is formed by the successive deposition of sand by longshore sand transport under the conditions that waves are obliquely incident at a large angle relative to the direction normal to the shoreline and a sufficient volume of sand is supplied from the upcoast (Zenkovich 1967)

  • Because of the two directions of wave incidence, the sand spits began to form at the right end of the sand source by 2×103 steps, and the tips of the sand spits approached each other owing to the wave-sheltering effect of the sand spit

  • After 4×103 steps, two sand spits extended from the corners of the rectangular sand source and connected with each other, resulting in the formation of a triangular closed water body in the central part, and a concave shoreline was formed on both sides of the cuspate foreland

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Summary

Introduction

A sand spit is a dynamically changing type of topography protruding into the sea and is formed by the successive deposition of sand by longshore sand transport under the conditions that waves are obliquely incident at a large angle relative to the direction normal to the shoreline and a sufficient volume of sand is supplied from the upcoast (Zenkovich 1967). Miyahara et al (2014) studied the mechanism of the formation of a land-tied island as a result of the elongation of a cuspate foreland using the BG model In their model, a wave field was evaluated by the angular spreading method for irregular waves, and a sand transport equation evaluated at the breaking point was employed. Serizawa et al (2015) improved the model by which waves from two opposing directions are strictly solved using the energy balance equation to precisely evaluate the wave field They studied the morphological characteristics, taking the two cuspate forelands of Futtsu Point and the one located at the northeast end of Graham Island in British Columbia, Canada, as examples. We aim to develop a model for predicting the deformation of a cuspate foreland in the presence of islands

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