Evolution of essential oils in cosmetic formulation: a patent review

The present study was conducted to evaluate the in vitro antimicrobial and antioxidant properties of thyme and rosemary essential oils. The chemical compositions of hydro distilled essential oils were analyzed by GC/MS system. A total of 30 constituents representing of thyme oil were identified: thymol (39.44%), P-cymene (23.6%), γterpinene (12.51%), ledol (2.24%) and Aromadenrrene (2.12%) were the main components comprising 79.91% of the oil. While 37 constituents representing of rosemary oil were identified: borneol (24.13%), α – pinene (9.72%), αcaryophyllene (8.35%), ledol (6.42%), eucalyptol (5.11%), camphor (5.01%), γ – terpinene (5.005), Dverbenone (4.17%), limonene (2.29%) and methyl jasmonate (2.24) were the main components comprising 72.445 % of the oil. Antioxidant effects of essential oils from thyme and rosemary were determined on flaxseed and sesame oils. These essential oils were added to the oils at concentrations of 0.25% and 0.5%, besides the control groups for comparison. The samples were stored 65° C in darkness for 14 days. The antioxidant activity of the essential oils was determined by measuring peroxide values (meq O2/kg oil). On the basis of peroxide value assay, the essential oils showed stronger antioxidant effect when compared to control groups. Amongst the investigated essential oils, the thyme oil was the most effective on retarding lipid oxidation of crude oils, which was followed by rosemary oil. On the other hand in the present investigation antimicrobial activity of two essential oils has been evaluated. After bioassays, most of the essential oils were found susceptible to Gram-positive bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, and didn't showed any activity against Gram-negative bacteria Pseudomonas aueginosa, Escherichia coli. For screening of antimicrobial susceptibility in each essential oil, both positive and negative controls were set to determine growth inhibition zone diameters and MIC (minimum inhibitory concentration).Among two essential oils thyme oil was found to be highly antimicrobial, as it has shown high growth inhibition zone diameter in comparison to rosemary oil except against Aspergillus niger.

The common pistachio psylla, <em>Agonoscena pistaciae</em> Burckhardt and Lauterer (Hem.: Aphalaridae), is one of the most important pests of pistachio orchards in Iran. Green lacewing, <em>Chrysoperlacarnea,</em> as a general predator found abundantly in Iranian pistachio gardens, loses its performance under the impression of pesticides spraying. Nowadays, considering environmental pollutions, human health and the importance of healthy and organic nutrition, extensive researches are carried out around the world in order to replace the synthetic products with plant materials. In this study, the mortality effect of two ethanol extracts of <em>Tribulus terrestris</em> and <em>Tagetes erecta</em> and two essential oils of <em>Mentha pulegium</em> and <em>Rosmarinus officinalis</em> were studied on <em>A. pistaciae</em> and its natural enemy <em>C. carnea</em>. The results showed that, although essential oils do not have appreciable effect on mortality of this psylla, but the extracts have high mortality potential on psylla nymphs, especially on N1 nymphs and the low influence on 1-2 days green lacewing larvae. The plant extracts and essential oils have not effect on 5-6 days green lacewing larvae. The results show that the plant derived chemicals and ethanol have not negative effect on hatching rate of the natural enemy. Among these treatments, <em>R. officinalis</em> essential oil has negative effect on eggs hatching rate, so its use is not recommended. Therefore with no impact of plant material on natural enemies, we can use green lacewing and herbal extracts in integrated pest control.

Comparison of the characteristics of gold nanoparticles synthesized using aqueous plant extracts and natural plant essential oils of Eucalyptus globulus and Rosmarinus officinalis

Rosemary ( Rosmarinus officinalis L.) and its essential oil offers a wide range of therapeutic benefits, supported by both in vitro experiments and clinical research. Its key compounds, 1,8-cineole, camphor, and α-pinene, along with other minor constituents, contribute to its unique scent and are responsible for bioactivity. Aromatherapy with rosemary essential oil, documented in 39 scientific references available in scientific databases Scopus, WoS, Google Scholar, has been shown to enhance cognitive function, sleep quality, mood, and pain management, while also showing potential for addressing conditions such as androgenetic alopecia and various types of pain. In practice, rosemary oil is commonly used pure, occasionally diluted in some carrier oil, and less frequently in combination with other essential oils, for massage or inhalation therapies. Despite its beneficial effects, rosemary oil is not without risks. Case reports have documented allergic reactions, including contact dermatitis and, in rare instances, anaphylaxis. These observations underscore the need for caution, particularly in individuals with known sensitivities to specific compounds of the essential oil. Overall, rosemary essential oil represents a valuable modality within aromatherapy and integrative health approaches. However, its safe application requires careful consideration of both therapeutic benefits and potential adverse effects, emphasizing the importance of informed use in clinical and home settings. This review systematically compiles and evaluates current scientific evidence on rosemary essential oil in aromatherapy, highlighting its therapeutic potential, practical applications, and safety considerations, thereby providing a comprehensive resource for researchers and practitioners.

Volatile oils are natural compounds that can be adopted in many drug and cosmetic formulations. Many volatile oils can be extracted from natural plants and they have their own special biological activities. Nine volatile oils including pine oil (P), guava leaf oil (G), lime peel oil (L), cinnamon bark oil (C), sage oil (S), tea tree oil (T) rosemary oil (R), clove oil (CL) and jasmine sambac oil (J) were in vitro tested for anti-microbial activities against various microbes and cytotoxicity properties agianst HCT116 and HT29 cell lines. From our result, for antimicrobial activities, the most effective oil against Gram positive such as Staphylococcus aureus are T, R and L. Only P showed the great inhibition on Gram negative bacteria such as Escherichia coli. C, P, L, T and R also exhibited different inhibitory effects on the pathogenic yeasts depending on the candida species. For the antitumoral activity on colorectal cancer cell lines, C showed the most cytotoxicity on both HCT116 and HT29 cells with IC50 value of 7.7 and 74.0 μg/ml, respectively. The second most cytotoxic was guava oil with the IC50 of 101.2 and 97.91 μg/ml on HCT116 and HT29, respectively. These investigated data may be useful as information for oil selection and development of pharmaceutical dosage forms using these natural volatile oils as the ingredients.

Medicinal plants represent an inexhaustible source of traditional and effective remedies thanks to the various active ingredients they contain. Secondary metabolites present in plant extracts, such as essential oils (EO), have remarkable pharmacological properties, including antimicrobial effects. Here, the chemical composition and antimicrobial effects of four Moroccan medicinal plants, Rosmarinus officinalis L. (R. officinalis), Mentha pulegium L. (M. pulegium), Salvia officinalis L. (S. officinalis), and Thymus zygis subsp. gracilis (Boiss.) R. Morales (T. zygis), traditionally used in Morocco to treat microbial infections, were addressed. EO were extracted using the hydrodistillation method, and analyzed by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC/MS). EO yields were of 3.64 ± 0.12, 3.53 ± 0.06, 2.48 ± 0.06, and 2.34 ± 0.08%, respectively, for M. pulegium, R. officinalis, S. officinalis, and T. zygis. The main bioactive components present in these EO were piperitenone (32.9%) and pulegone (32.8%) for M. pulegium, 1,8-cineol (43.8%) and camphor (18.7%) for R. officinalis, 1,8-cineole (16.8%) and trans-thujone (15.9%) for S. officinalis, and thymol (36.4%), carvacrol (24.1%) and cymene (23.5%) for T. zygis. These EO showed, according to the results of their antimicrobial activities, good effectiveness against bacteria and fungi. Moreover, the T. zygis EO showed the most potent activity against all bacteria studied, while that of R. officinalis, M. pulegium, and S. officinalis showed moderate activity against the Enterobacter cloacae of Streptococcus agalactiae and Escherichia coli. The antifungal activity tests revealed a strong antifungal activity for the T. zygis EO and a moderate activity for the S. officinalis EO. On the other hand, the EO of R. officinalis, and M. pulegium were found to be inactive at the doses used against the selected strains. In conclusion, our results show that the medicinal plants studied contain biologically active molecules with antimicrobial effects. They can replace synthesized molecules, especially in the formulation of additives, and for therapeutic, cosmetic, and food-processing purposes.

This study aimed to assess the dietary effects of rosemary and clove essential oils separately and in combination on the growth performance; immunological, hematological, and physiological responses; and antioxidant status of growing rabbits. One hundred forty-four of 42-day-old growing V-line rabbits (both sexes with initial live body weights of 765 ± 6g) were randomly allocated into four treatment groups of 36 rabbits each. Each group was further sub-divided into 12 replicates of 3 rabbits in a completely randomized design. The 1st group was fed a basal diet free of additives and served as the control group, the 2nd and 3rd groups were fed basal diets supplemented with rosemary and clove essential oils, respectively, at doses of 400mg/kg diet. The 4th group received a basal diet supplemented with a combination of clove and rosemary essential oils at doses of 200mg/kg diet each. The results showed that the different supplementations did not influence rabbit performance or immunological traits. Opposite to performance or immunological traits, differences in red blood cells and hemoglobin value among all dietary treatments were improved (P < 0.05). Dietary essential oil supplementation with clove, rosemary oil, or a mixed of both increased (P < 0.05) blood concentrations of catalase, superoxide dismutase, and glutathione peroxidase by 47, 42, and 7%; 56, 35, and 36%; and 40, 39, and 37%, respectively, in supplemented rabbits versus control rabbits. In conclusion, clove and/or rosemary essential oils can potentially be used in rabbit diets to improve antioxidant status without change in rabbit's growth performance or immunological parameters.

Formulation and evaluation of hair growth enhancing effects of oleogels made from Rosemary and Cedar wood oils

Candida albicans is the causative agent of fatal systemic candidiasis. Due to limitations of antifungals, new drugs are needed. The anti-virulence effect of plant essential oils (EOs) was evaluated against clinical C. albicans isolates including cinnamon, clove, jasmine and rosemary oils. Biofilm, phospholipase and hemolysin were assessed phenotypically. EOs were evaluated for their anti-virulence activity using phenotypic methods as well as scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and atomic force microscopy (AFM). Among the C. albicans isolates, biofilm, phospholipase and hemolysins were detected in 40.4, 86.5 and 78.8% of isolates, respectively. Jasmine oil showed the highest anti-biofilm activity followed by cinnamon, clove and rosemary oils. SEM and AFM analysis showed reduced adherence and roughness in the presence of EOs. For phospholipase, rosemary oil was the most inhibitory, followed by jasmine, cinnamon and clove oils, and for hemolysins, cinnamon had the highest inhibition followed by jasmine, rosemary and clove oils. A molecular docking study revealed major EO constituents as promising inhibitors of the Als3 adhesive protein, with the highest binding for eugenol, followed by 1,8-cineole, 2-phenylthiolane and cinnamaldehyde. In conclusion, EOs have a promising inhibitory impact on Candida biofilm, phospholipase and hemolysin production, hence EOs could be used as potential antifungals that impact virulence factors.

Role of Essential Oils of Medicinal Plants (Eucalyptus Globulus, Thuja Occidentalis, Rosmarinus Officinalis, Lavandula Officinalis) to Treat Broad Spectrum Bacterial and Fungal Pathogens and as Antioxidants in Food and Health

The use of essential oils in the production of cosmetics and related products may have several advantages, such as enhancing the dermato‐cosmetic properties and preservation, as well as the marketing image of the final product. The use of botanical materials such as essential oils in cosmetic formulations at relatively high concentrations is likely to provide skin benefit. The potential of essential oils indigenous to the tropical and subtropical part of Africa has not been sufficiently exploited in this regard. Using a challenge test, this study demonstrates the potential application of two South African indigenous plant essential oils, viz. Artemisia afra and Pteronia incana oils, and oils of two Mediterranean aromatic plants grown in South Africa, viz. Lavandula officinalis, and Rosmarinus officinalis, to be used as natural cosmetic preservatives in an aqueous cream formulation. Except for Pseudomonas aeruginosa strains, the oils displayed remarkable antimicrobial activities against all common test organisms (including bacteria and fungi) and environmental isolates used. All the test microorganisms used in this study were generally more susceptible to the oils during the challenge test in aqueous cream compared to the antimicrobial test performed on agar. The results indicate, therefore, that the oils can be recommended as candidate natural cosmetic preservatives. Artemisia afra oil was the most efficient in reducing the load of artificial contaminations in the aqueous cream formulation within 2–7 days. Since relatively high concentrations of the oils were used, the oils could at the same time serve as natural fragrances in aqueous cream, in addition to assuring protection against microbial contamination. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley &amp; Sons, Ltd.

This randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical in vivo study aimed to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for non-inflammatory acne using essential oils. Fifty-three male participants were divided into four groups: a formulation containing a mixture of four essential oils (4EO), Melaleuca alternifolia (M.a.), nanoemulsion of M. alternifolia (Nanoem.), and a placebo group. The participants applied the formulation daily for 90 days and non-invasive skin imaging techniques were employed to assess the outcomes. Skin microrelief images and reflectance confocal microscopy images were captured in the malar region, and Raman spectroscopy was used to analyze the terpene composition of the essential oils, oil mixture, and nanoemulsion. The results indicated that the nanoemulsion, M.a. essential oil, and 4EO formulation effectively reduced the overall number of comedone and improved follicular hyperkeratinization. The nanoemulsion of M.a. demonstrated the most promising outcomes in reducing comedone areas, especially in the infundibular region. This effect could be attributed to the presence of terpinene-4-ol in the essential oil and the enhanced penetration provided by the nanoemulsion formulation. These findings suggest that cosmetic formulations containing essential oils, particularly in nanoemulsion form, have potential against mild acne. This study contributes to our understanding of the relationship between terpene composition and clinical activity, highlighting the importance of innovative delivery systems.

Essential oils have emerged as popular natural alternatives to synthetic ingredients in cosmetic products, drawing attention for their therapeutic potential in treating skin conditions like acne, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. This systematic review analyzed 70 studies from the past decade across multiple databases to evaluate their effectiveness and safety in derma cosmetic applications. The research encompassed clinical trials, in vitro studies, and in vivo experiments examining various essential oils in different cosmetic formulations, including lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia), chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), peppermint (Mentha piperita), hemp (Cannabis sativa), Euphorbia characias, hierba de San Guillermo (Agrimoniaeupatoria) and eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus). Key findings demonstrated that tea tree oil was particularly effective for acne treatment, while lavender and rosemary oils showed promising anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. Plant extracts from Ocimum gratissimum and Matricaria chamomilla also yielded positive results for skin health improvement. Various formulations such as gels, creams, and serums showed different levels of effectiveness in enhancing skin hydration, elasticity, and overall appearance. While the clinical evidence suggests significant potential for essential oils in cosmetic and dermatological applications, researchers emphasize the need for more comprehensive, longterm clinical trials to establish their efficacy and safety profiles fully.

Currently, the demand for the use of constituents of natural origin in cosmetic formulations in detriment of synthetic compounds is noticeable. Several studies assess the potential of essential oils when incorporated into various cosmetic formulations and study their biological activities. This work intends to prepare a literature review on essential oils tested in dermocosmetic formulations and whose biological activities were evaluated through in vitro and/or in vivo tests. The main objectives for this study were as follows: to identify the essential oils that have been used in cosmetic formulations; and compile information on the main biological activities tested in cosmetic formulations. A search was carried out until 2021 in the scientific databases PubMed and Web of Science, using different search terms, and several scientific articles from in vitro and in vivo studies in animals and clinical trials were selected and analyzed of involving development dermocosmetic formulations containing essential oils and the analysis of their biological activities. These studies demonstrate that the antimicrobial activity (antibacterial and antifungal) is the one most studied, mainly through in vitro tests. In vivo studies were also carried out either in animals or in clinical studies showing different effects, such as repellent action, inhibition of hair growth, and action against migraine. Regarding formulations, it was evident that creams are the most used. There is enormous potential for the use of essential oils in future formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, in particular as preservatives, exploring their other biological activities.

In the last decades, the interest in biological activity of natural compounds has been growing. In plant protection, essential oils have been reported to exhibit antiviral, antimycotic, and antiparasitic activities, and are regarded as promising for the formulation of safe antimicrobial agents. Attention has also been focused on hydrosols, the by-products of hydro-distillation of essential oils. Their production is easy, fast, and cheap, and they seem to arise less concern for human health than essential oils. Plant viruses represent a major concern for agricultural crops since no treatment compound is available for virus control. This work was aimed at evaluating the antiphytoviral effectiveness of treatments with three essential oils and corresponding hydrosols extracted from Origanum vulgare, Thymus vulgaris, and Rosmarinus officinalis on Cucurbita pepo plants infected by zucchini yellow mosaic virus or tomato leaf curl New Delhi virus. Treatments were applied either concurrently or after virus inoculation to ascertain an inhibition or curative activity, respectively. Symptoms were observed and samplings were performed weekly. Virus titer and expression levels of phenylalanine ammonia lyase gene (PAL) were measured on treated and untreated infected plants by real-time PCR. PAL gene plays an important role in plant defense response as it is involved in tolerance/resistance to phytopathogens. Results indicated that treatments were effective against tomato leaf curl New Delhi virus whether applied simultaneously with the inoculation or after. A major inhibition was observed with O. vulgare essential oil and hydrosol, resulting in 10–4-fold decrease of virus titer 3 weeks after treatment. Curative activity gave maximum results with all three essential oils and T. vulgaris and R. officinalis hydrosols, recording from 10–2-fold decrease to virus not detected 4 weeks after treatment. An induction of PAL gene expression was recorded at 12 d.p.i. and then was restored to the levels of untreated control. This allows to hypothesize an early plant defense response to virus infection, possibly boosted by treatments. Plant extracts’ composition was characterized by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Phenols were largely main components of O. vulgare and T. vulgaris extracts (carvacrol and thymol, respectively), while extracts from R. officinalis were based on monoterpene hydrocarbons (essential oil) and oxygenated monoterpenes (hydrosol).