Development and Aesthetic Evaluation of Knitted Garments Blended with Oak Tasar and Viscose Fibres

High performance materials are no longer a mystery ; it is just a matter of time when the next generation of better and smarter fabrics will appear. As in everyday life, people like to be surrounded with textile materials that retain their original properties for a long time, together with high wear resistance under the conditions of use, i.e. high resistance to abrasion. It is necessary to choose the best method and appropriate procedures to test them, as well as the manners of expressing test results. This may be a good starting point for the development of new methods and test procedures, as well as an impulse for the construction of appropriate measurement equipment. Today, there are several different types of apparatuses for testing abrasion resistance. They have evolved over time to include different kinds of loading conditions and materials, in order to be truer and closer to real conditions. Their results are not mutually comparable and often opposing results have been reported using different instruments. Lately, resistance to wear has been most common tested by Martindale, while the processes of circular wear with the tangential direction by Schopper have been mostly abandoned. However, testing abrasion resistance by Schopper has its advantages and disadvantages. The use of SiC paper provides intensive wear at lower number of cycles and tangential contact sample with the abrading material. When using the Martindale method, the sample moves according to the Lissajous figure, standard wool fabric being abraded over the entire surface and this certainly contributes to getting reliable results. This method is ideal for everyday fabrics, but when it comes to the fabrics in the high performance fabrics group, the method can be modified, which we discussed before. Why is this important? It is well known that a textile material with high resistance to abrasion, such as Cordura®, can stand 100 thousand rubs by Martindale without a mass loss or specimen breakdown. Obviously, this kind of material will abrade a woven wool fabric, and not the other way around. Thus, the question arises whether the determination of Cordura® abrasion resistance, or some other the similar high performance fabric, using the Martindale methods, is suitable or the methods should be modified in order to obtain significant results? In addition to the modification of Martindale in the manner described before, some modifications of standard methods of testing abrasion resistance by Martindale are also possible, all of them aiming at obtaining significant results. The Department of Materials, Fibres and Textile Testing, the Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, has been involved in testing high quality fabrics intended for military and police use for some time. A number of high performance fabrics have been investigated and the need to determine wet abrasion resistance showed to be one of the key requirements throughout the investigation. Fabrics intended for military and police uniforms are exposed to a number of physical and chemical agents in the course of regular use, rain and moisture being most frequently encountered. This means that, apart from testing dry abrasion resistance, as required by current standard, standard should be complemented by including testing wet abrasion. Such a method for determining abrasion resistance is particularly suitable for damage detection, as damaged textile materials show more pronounced reduction in strength in wet state. The advantage of the modification is that the testing proposed can be done using the same methods, procedures and equipment as with dry materials. Similar to the above, permeability of air and resistance to water with good resistance to abrasion are very important for high performance fabrics used by mountain climbers, soldiers, policemen, firemen, etc. The Martindale method can again be ideally modified to suit the purpose ; using the same apparatus, procedure and slightly modified methods it offers proper insight into the influence of wear on water or air permeability. Additional knowledge on the impact of testing abrasion resistance, as related to air permeability and water resistance, will be acquired in this way as well. In general, the development of the materials today is not followed by the adequate development in testing methods and testing equipment. Numerous testing laboratories are in problems when testing high-performance fabrics. The authors wish to demonstrate the necessity to develop methods and equipment that would be able to follow the development of contemporary high-performance fabrics.

The performance and degradation of nonwoven mulches made from viscose, jute, hemp fibers, and their blends with PLA fibers, subjected to field conditions, are investigated. This research explores the possible substitution of traditional agricultural polyethylene mulching agro foil with environmentally friendly biodegradable nonwoven mulches produced from blends of jute, hemp, and viscose fibers along with PLA fibers. The nonwoven mulches underwent a ten-month exposure to field conditions, showing varied degradation. The jute and hemp nonwoven mulches degraded completely within the test period, whereas their blends with PLA fibers exhibited slowed degradation. This study indicated that PLA fibers in blends with jute, hemp, and viscose mulches slowed degradation, impacting their structural integrity and tensile properties. The tensile properties of nonwoven mulches blended with 20% of PLA fibers increased the breaking forces after field exposure. Observations on structural changes through microscopy highlighted the structure maintenance in jute and hemp blends due to the non-degraded PLA fibers, contrasting the complete degradation of 100% jute and hemp mulches. A microscopic analysis revealed alterations in the fiber structure and density changes, particularly in viscose mulches and their blends with PLA fibers. Soil temperature variations were observed under different mulches; e.g., agro foil consistently exhibited higher temperatures compared to nonwoven mulches. Notably, the hemp and jute/PLA blend mulches showed slightly elevated temperatures, while the viscose-based mulches consistently revealed the lowest temperatures. Regarding soil moisture, the nonwoven mulches generally maintained higher moisture levels compared to the control field and agro foil from June to October. These findings suggest that nonwoven mulches effectively preserved soil moisture during critical growth periods, potentially positively impacting plant growth. The weed suppression capabilities varied among mulches, with hemp mulch initially displaying the lowest suppression ability in the first six months. The addition of 20% of PLA fibers in mulch blends with viscose, jute, and hemp notably improved the weed control capabilities. Understanding the impacts of field conditions on newly produced nonwoven mulches is crucial for optimizing mulch selection in agricultural practices to enhance soil conditions and weed management.

In industrial materials, tribological properties of fibers are one of very important practical properties. To make high abrasion resistance fibers, Polypropylene/Polyamide 6 (hereafter “PP/PA6”) blend fibers of different blend ratios and viscosity ratios were prepared. The relationship between abrasion property and blend ratio of the blend fibers showed that the abrasion resistance increased by blending PA6 by about 20% compared with pure PP fiber, and that the abrasion resistance decreased as more PA6 was blended. Pure PA6 fiber (PA6 content=100%), however, showed a high abrasion resistance. Namely, the relationship between abrasion resistance and blend ratio of the blend fibers was shown in a reverse-S-shaped curve.Then, abrasion property was studied for blend fibers of different viscosity ratios (ηPP/ηPA6). The results showed that the blend fiber of a viscosity ratio value smaller than 1 had relatively low abrasion resistance even for equivalent PA6 content, and that abrasion resistance increased as viscosity ratio increased. Investigation of the composition of the fiber surface by FTIR-ATR proved that as the abrasion resistance of the blend fiber increased, the content of the PA6 component on the surface increased. Blend fibers of viscosity ratio value more than 1 had considerable abraded powder on the fiber surface after abrasion, indicating further improvement of abrasion resistance. These results indicate that a blend fiber of a large viscosity ratio has a higher abrasion resistance than pure PA6 fiber and PP fiber.

Using more sustainable materials and products, the textile sector has been able to contribute to the circular economy. Moreover, the textile industry is witnessing a paradigm shift for more sustainable production methods due to enhanced environmental restrictions and rising consumer preferences for eco-friendly textile products by using the natural fibres and natural dyes. Petroleum-derived synthetic colourants are being used extensively in the textile industry due to their wide colour range, fastness, and affordability which resulted utilisation of significant amounts of fossil fuels and resources. In result, synthetic colours contribute to pollution problems and some of them are even hazardous. Industries are actively seeking alternate approaches to mitigate the detrimental impact of manufactured colourants and chemicals on the environment and human health. This article comprehensively reviews the significant developments in the dyeing of hemp with natural dyes. Several plants like inula, agro-food industry leftovers (chestnut and onion), and logwood and madder have been used for dyeing hemp textiles and examined colour strength and the UV protection characteristics which is the growing demand of "eco-friendly" market. Further, Various natural dye extracts such as calendula (Calendula Officialis), common madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.), pomegranate peel extracts (Punica granatum) and dried Buddleja officinalis flower extracts have been utilised for dyeing the hemp fabrics with various metallic, natural mordants with different mordanting condition and assessed the various parameters like colour strength (K/S), colour fastness properties. The dyed fabrics from pomegranate peel extracts have shown significant antibacterial activity and good colour fastness against laundering, water, sea water, and perspiration. Efforts are underway to utilise natural dyes in order to achieve comparable outcomes to those achieved with synthetic dyes. Understanding the various natural materials for dyeing the Hemp and their characteristics provides a new insight for the dyeing industry and inspiring to carry out the research in similar natural materials.

Fashion trends nowadays prefer synthetic dyes and fabrics in industry and these goods could not successfully connect environmentally friendly concepts with sustainability. As a substitution for synthetic dyes and fabrics, natural dyes, and fabrics can counter the existing problem by carrying out eco-print to minimize environmental pollution and risks to human health. Therefore, this study aims to explore the effect of eco-printing on three different types of fabrics (cotton, linen, and silk) by using three different types of flowers (Marigold, Cosmos, and Butterfly Pea). The Eco-print process was run by using the steaming method with different times taken to determine which time is the most appropriate to get a nice and clear print. This study focused on the colorfastness properties of eco-printed fabrics. These results were evaluated by performing color measurement and fastness tests towards washing and light referring to standard testing methods. As results, with the addition of Aluminium Potassium Sulphate mordants, the effect of eco-print of Marigold Flowers on silk fabric are the best results in fastness properties. The best time for steaming effect for eco-print in this study is 30 minutes. In terms of color measurement, it was discovered that mordants such Aluminium Potassium Sulphate enhance eco-print color on fabrics and provide the darkest colors which provided a colorfastness test with rating of moderate to good towards washing and light testing.

The abrasion behaviour of thirty-nine woven fabrics made of wool, polyester and cellulosic (viscose and flax) fibre blends has been measured using the Martindale wear and abrasion tester. The abrasion resistance has been assessed through the number of cycles needed to produce yarn breakage. The abradability has been measured by the rate of weight loss per 1000 abrasion cycle (kcy). A cumulative distribution of weight loss versus abrasion cycles has been plotted using the weight loss produced at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% of the number of cycles needed for yarn breakage. The plot shows the abrasion kinetic and a third degree polynomial model has been used to fit it. The first derivative at the origin gave the initial abradability or rate of mass loss (mg/kcy). A very high negative correlation between the number of abrasion cycles to produce yarn breakage and the mean abradability has been observed. The abrasion resistance depends on the fabric type, the woollen fabrics being the less abrasion-resistant while the worsted ones showed higher abrasion resistance. Abrasion kinetics depends on fabric sett, interlacing weave and composition. Closed fabrics with high sett levels, interlacing weaves and polyester content, showed a concave abrasion kinetic while open fabrics with higher content of wool and/or cellulosic fibres showed a convex abrasion kinetic. Using regression analysis, the most relevant fabric parameters related to the abrasion resistance were fabric composition, thickness and the weave interlacing coefficient.

Green plants are one of nature’s factories, fixing inorganic chemicals into organic compounds through photosynthesis and other reactions. Microbes are one of the nature’s most effective tools, converting organic materials—dead plants and animals—into inorganic forms through decomposition and mineralization. Together, green plants and microbes are responsible for maintaining a balance between the organic and inorganic worlds, but pollutants, such as synthetic dyes, can upset this balance. Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes are safer and more environmentally friendly, but they are also costlier and more difficult to apply, so they are not viable in most commercial applications. Azo dyes are low cost and have high intensity and color fastness, so they are the most frequently used class of synthetic dyes. The main threats related to the dumping of untreated azo dyes into the environment come from their primary byproducts––aromatic amines––which result from the cleavage of the central azo bonds, and which have been classified as significant carcinogenic compounds, representing a great risk to humans as well as the environment. To address this threat, the degradation of synthetic azo dyes is showing promise as an approach to treating azo-dye wastewater. In this review, the classification of azo dyes and their color mechanism is presented first, and then an overview of the research on their environmental impacts is provided, including their effects on biochemical and chemical oxygen demand, water ecosystems, plants, and crops. Finally, the legislation and guidelines on azo dyes and their byproducts are discussed. Keywords: azo dyes; climate change; biochemical oxygen demand; chemical oxygen demand; aromatic amines

Among the regenerated cellulosic fibers, viscose fiber is the most harmless material on human skin. Nonetheless, viscose fiber has some disadvantages such as low wet strength, high elongation, flammability, and poor color fastness. To improve adsorption and color fastness properties of viscose fiber, amphoteric viscose fibers were prepared. In the current study, viscose fiber was modified with 2,3-epoxy propyltrimethyl ammonium chloride and sodium chloroacetate using sodium hydroxide as catalyst. With adsorption performance of methyl orange and methylene blue as target dyes, the modification conditions were optimized in terms of temperature, time, and catalyst dosage with orthogonal test and single-factor experiment. The modified product was characterized using Fourier transform infrared spectrometry, scanning electron microscopy, ultraviolet spectrophotometry. Meanwhile, nitrogen content, degree of substitution, tensile strength, and adsorption property were measured. It was concluded that the best cationic reaction process conditions were reaction temperature of 70 °C, reaction time of 1 h, and sodium hydroxide dosage of 0.09 g, which was 1% of the amount of viscose fiber when the amount of etherifying agent was 30% of viscose fiber. The best anionic reaction conditions were reaction temperature of 70 °C, reaction time of 1 h, and 3.3 g of 10% sodium hydroxide solution. The adsorption properties of amphoteric modified viscose fiber towards methylene blue and methyl orange were excellent. The maximum adsorption of methylene blue and methyl orange was obtained at 1.483 and 0.234 mg g−1, respectively.

Eco-dyeing with biocolorant from spent coffee ground on low molecular weight chitosan crosslinked cotton

The aspect o f producing leather and textile products without impacting on the ecological balance, affecting both human and environmental health, is an important focal point to be pursued. Therefore, to address some o f these issues a study was conducted to evaluate the efficiency o f dyeing leather with madder, which is a 100% natural dyestuff from the extract o f Rubia tinctorum and ascertain its friendly attributes to the environment. Treatment designs in the study included pre and post mordanting methods which were applied to selected types o f leather and subsequently subjected to three different mordants: potassium aluminium sulphate [K A h S O ^ .U H ^O ] , copper sulphate [CuSO^SH^O] and ferro sulphate [FeSO4.7H2O]. This approach was done to potentially obtain different colors and improve color fastnesses. In this study, the investigation was based on two primary source o f tanned material, chrome and vegetable tanned leathers. Color measurements o f the dyed leathers were carried out using a M inolta CM-508d brand spectrophotometer. O n the other hand, dyestuff exhaustions were determined using a Shimadzu UV-1601 PC UV-Visible spectrophotometer. O n the finished leather products, parameters such as color fastness to rubbing was determined with, the TS EN ISO 11640, color fastness to perspiration with, the TS EN ISO 11641, and color fastness to light with, the ISO 10S-B02 standard method. Moreover these parameters were comparatively analyzed and reported. The results eventually indicated that the obtained color and color fastness values varied according to; the type o f tanning method, mordanting method, and mordant type. Most o f the result values obtained were generally at satisfactory levels which were between 3/4 and S fastness values. Different extraction methods, different mordants, and mordanting methods to be carried out in future are suggested so as to optimize the results o f the current study.

In this modern era, most of the textile industries used synthetic dyes for coloring their fabrics. The reason why most of textile companies use synthetic dyes is that synthetic dyes are easier to obtain, the availability of colors is guaranteed, vast variety of colors, good color fastness. Nevertheless, the use of synthetic dyes in the textile industries has caused environmental problems if the waste not treated properly. Additionally, synthetic dyes commonly contain chemicals which are not good for human health. They can cause cancer, attack the nerves of the brain, etc. Therefore, most of people now focus on using natural dyes as alternative to subtitute synthetic dyes. Nowdays, in Indonesia, naturally-dyed textile products, such as Batik tulis (using natural dyes) has a high market potential as a superior commodity of Indonesian products to enter the international market. Therefore, to develop the use of natural dyes in the textile industries, it is necessary to explore the sources of natural dyes from various potential natural resources in Indonesia. Most of these natural dyes are coming from the plants. Cassava leaf is widely known and used for cooking by the people of Indonesia. Based on the literature, cassava leaf contains natural pigments such as chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b, xanthophyll, carotene, and anthocyanin Based on this, we took the initiative to conduct research to investigate the potential use of cassava leaves extract as natural coloring substance for coloring fabrics. In this research, Cassava leaf extract has been obtained via solid-liquid extraction process using two different solvents, ethanol (96%) and n-hexane. From this study, it was found that the most optimum extract resulted from the extraction process was about 1.67% with ratio of cassava leaves and ethanol solvent of 1:10. This extract was then used for coloring the cotton cloth. After colored, the cloth was then tested for its color fastness by two methods, namely rub method and washing with soap. From the test results, it was found that the fabric dyed with cassava leaf extract was not much able to withstand against rubbing and washing with soap. Based on this result, further research is needed, such as using other agents during the mordanting and fixation processes

Denim-like knitted fabrics are getting popular for their several favorable properties, such as flexibility, comfort, and ease of manufacturing. This study aimed to manufacture knitted denim fabrics made from various blend ratios of cotton, polyester, and spandex fibers. Seven fabrics with a fiber blend ratio ranging from 95% cotton/5% spandex to 30% cotton/65% polyester/5% spandex were developed using a weft circular knitting machine. First, the twill effect of the knitted denim fabric was brought by following a cross terry knitting structure to produce each fabric sample of this study. After that, the fabric performance was analyzed by characterizations, such as areal density, pilling and abrasion resistance, dimensional stability, stretch, and recovery, tear strength, bursting strength, air permeability, vertical wicking, liquid absorbency capacity, and different colorfastness tests. The results showed that different cotton, polyester, and spandex fiber compositions did not significantly affect knitted denim fabrics’ weight per unit area, abrasion resistance, and different color fastness properties. However, the elongation and vertical wicking test data showed that the knitted denim fabrics with a higher cotton fiber ratio were better. However, the results from shrinkage, spirality, pilling, recovery, strength, air permeability, and liquid absorbency capacity tests revealed the benefits of having a higher polyester fiber ratio in the cotton/polyester/spandex blended knitted denim fabrics. One-way analysis of the variance test was also performed on the generated data of this study and reported in the respective section of the article.

This paper investigates the physical properties of organic cotton staple yarns manufactured by ring and siro spinning methods as well as analyzes the physical properties of fabric specimens knitted with staple yarns made by these two methods. The breaking stress and evenness of organic ring staple yarns showed the same level for the Japanese specimens as the control yarns; in addition, the same coefficient for the friction of the manufactured yarns and Japanese specimens was also shown. These results makes it possible to manufacture organic staple ring yarns from organic cotton fibers. The tenacity and breaking strain of siro staple yarns were higher than ring staple yarns. The evenness and friction coefficient of siro staple yarns were lower than the ring staple yarns; in addition, hairiness and the number of siro staple yarns was significantly lower than the ring staple yarns. The dimensional stabilities of knitted fabrics by 20 Ne and 30 Ne siro staple yarns were superior to ring staple yarns. The color fastnesses of washing, perspiration and abrasion of knitted fabrics by two spinning methods showed the same level as the 4.5 grade; however, the light fastness of knitted fabric by siro staple yarns was superior to ring staple yarns. It was shown that the siro spinning method (using eco-friendly organic cotton fibers) was applicable to a high sensible knitted garment that overcame drawbacks of organic fibers related to shrinkable properties after washing and low color fastness to light.

The fabric structure is the fundamental unit that controls all properties of weft knitted fabrics. This paper studies the effect of three weft knitted structures; single jersey, rib 1 and 1, and cardigan on various properties. Knitted fabrics from 100% wool yarn of 3.8 Nm on flat knitting machine were used in the study. The effect of knit structure on the dimensional stability, density, resistance to pilling, fabric drape, fabric Diameter, color fastness to washing, and to rubbing properties are investigated, and it was found that tuck stitch influenced the properties of Knitted Fabrics. It increased their areal density, made it more porous, increased their pilling resistance, their drape coefficient, their width and kept their dimensional stability. However, the tuck stitch did not have a major influence on color fastness properties of knitted fabrics.

In this study, 100% soybean and 100% cotton suprem and pique knitted fabrics were produced. Quality performance parameters, color fastness and spectrophotometric color results of the knitted fabrics were compared. The aim of the study is to reveal the advantages and weaknesses of soybean knitted fabrics compared to cotton knitted fabrics. When the production and test results are examined, soybean fabrics are softer than cotton fabrics. Knitted pique 100% soybean protein fiber fabrics dimensional change is worse than 100% cotton. Air permeability of fabrics made from soybean fiber is better than cotton fabrics therefore it can be provided thermal comfort conditions. Bursting strength of soybean fabrics is as good as cotton fabrics. In the color fastness tests, the fastness values of the soybean fabrics were found to be high and wet rubbing fastness is good. As a result of this study, it was seen that the color fastness, softness, abrasion resistance, air permeability of the soybean knitted were better than cotton fabrics. Soybean fabrics were found to be more pilling than cotton fabrics. When the results of the research are examined, 100% soybean fabrics can be used instead of cotton fabrics.