Cultural appreciation and appropriation in the crafting of the new Peruvian cuisine

Abstract

Elite craftspeople, as specialist producers with privileged access and resources, can elevate the perceived status of craft elements such as materials, traditions, and techniques regarded as lowbrow due to their association with marginalized groups. While they strive to emphasize cultural appreciation, they often face accusations of cultural appropriation, which, if unaddressed, can undermine the perceptions of authenticity crucial for achieving higher cultural status. However, this tension between appreciation and appropriation overlooks the complex interplay of authenticity types that can structure the actions of elite craftspeople. Drawing on a qualitative study of new Peruvian cuisine, we examine how local elite chefs elevate marginalized craft elements through authenticity claims and develop a dual process model of cultural appreciation and appropriation. In doing so we identify how the elevation of marginalized craft elements involves, and even necessitates, aspects of appreciation and appropriation, especially when power dynamics are at play. We provide insights into the interplay between authenticity as connection and conformity, the agency in neo-craftwork, and claims of craftwashing.