Abstract
Dyeing with cochineal extract has been carried out in Mexico since pre‐Hispanic times as a handcraft process. However, this has limited its application on fabrics other than wool. An experiment was designed to study the influence of mordant concentration on colour behaviour in cotton fabric dyed with cochineal extract at the laboratory. At the same time, colour fastness was determined by applying six fastness tests to define the quality of the dyed fabric. It was concluded that, when there was a larger concentration of metallic ions in the mordant, colour fixation in the fabric was better, as there was less lightness in the red hue of the fabric. In addition, the more hydrogen ions present because of acids, the more intense the red hue. A decreasing trend in the colour fastness tests was observed: dry rubbing > artificial light > acids > alkalis > domestic washing > hot water.
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