Abstract
The cosmetic industry is a field on rise where the search for novel antioxidant ingredients, preferably from natural matrixes, became a new challenge. The reuse of Castanea sativa shells as a source of phytochemicals with pro-healthy effects in skin care products may be a valuable alternative to valorize this underexploited agro-industrial by-product. A previous study of our research group demonstrated the antioxidant properties of chestnut shells extract obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), as well as its safeness on skin cell lines, namely keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Based on the extract richness in antioxidants, a formulation containing C. sativa shells extract obtained by this environmentally friendly technology was successfully developed in the present study. The oil-in-water (O/W) cream incorporating the chestnut shells extract was further characterized regarding organoleptic and technological properties, namely color, pH, droplets size, and viscosity. A stability study over time was also accomplished. The results demonstrate that the formulation not only displayed pleasant organoleptic characteristics attractive to consumers but also a pH compatible with skin and a suitable viscosity for topical application. The stability study revealed minor changes to droplet size and color, without affecting the general stability of the formulation. In conclusion, this study emphasized the prominent benefits of chestnut shells extract as a novel ingredient for skin care formulations.
Highlights
Skin aging is a complex and multifactorial biological process that results from the cumulative effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors (e.g., ultraviolet (UV) radiation, environmental pollution, and improper skin care), which lead to gradual damages to skin integrity and physiological functions [1,2]
Chestnut shells have been described as a biowaste rich in phenolic compounds that are endowed with interesting pro-healthy properties that have captured the attention of food researchers and industry [8,12,13,19]
The current trend in the cosmetic industry encompasses the formulation of novel skin care products incorporating natural extracts as active ingredients
Summary
Skin aging is a complex and multifactorial biological process that results from the cumulative effects of intrinsic (e.g., genetic predisposition, hormonal disorders, and vitamin deficiencies) and extrinsic factors (e.g., ultraviolet (UV) radiation, environmental pollution, and improper skin care), which lead to gradual damages to skin integrity and physiological functions [1,2]. The major cause of skin aging is chronic exposure to UV rays, inducing skin harmful effects and prompting oxidative damages to DNA, lipids, and proteins via the overproduction of free radicals [1,2]. Besides endogenous antioxidants present in human skin (e.g., glutathione, superoxide dismutase, catalase), exogenous antioxidants, normally carried by topical formulations, may exert a key role in mitigating the biochemical consequences of oxidative stress by preventing protein and lipid oxidation, enhancing DNA repair, and scavenging free radicals [2,3]. The employment of environmentally friendly extraction technologies, such as ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), contributes to sustainable practices, allowing the isolation of bioactive compounds from agro-residues [4]
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