Cashmere, silk and wool blended woven fabrics: an investigation of physical and handle properties

Acrylic coating is applied to fabrics in order to improve their aesthetic properties as well as their physical performance. In this study, the effects of the acrylic coating process applied to woven fabrics with different structural parameters on various surface (roughness and friction coefficient) and physical performance (permeability and handle) properties of the fabrics were investigated. From the results obtained, a general decrease in the surface roughness parameters and friction coefficients of the fabrics was observed after the acrylic coating process, and these reduction rates were affected by the weave structure of the base fabric and the fabric's structural parameters. A decrease in air permeability, water vapor permeability, and thermal resistance values of acrylic-coated fabrics was observed; in addition, in terms of handle properties, the bending rigidity values increased, and crease recovery angle values decreased.As a result of this study, it was observed that the fabric surfaces after the acrylic coating gained smoother and lower friction coefficient properties, and by taking into account other physical performance properties such as permeability and handle properties of fabrics after coating, it could contribute to the determination of fabric structural parameters to be taken into consideration in the selection of the base fabric to be coated for the desired area of use.

The effects of warp tension, number of filaments, and luster of viscose warp yarns, and the effects of number of picks and denier of viscose filling yarns of 32 woven fabrics on the weight, construction, breaking strength, and elongation of yarns, and on the breaking strength (grab and strip), elongation (strip), tearing strength (tongue), crimp, seam slippage, crease recovery, resistance to abrasion, and air permeability of fabrics were evaluated. The relationship be- between strip strength, S, strip elongation, E, and grab strength, G, was found to be The relationship between resistance to abrasion, log R, picks per inch, P, and denier of filling, D, was found to be equally well expressed by the following equations: The relationship between the air permeability, A, picks per inch, P, and denier of filling, D, was found to be

The performance characteristics of nonwoven fabrics have been studied as a function of fiber properties, binder properties, and web construction. The particular type of nonwoven selected for study was a web of random-laid base fibers in which randomly placed thermoplastic fibers provide the bonds. The responses studied were those related to rupture, elastic, and handle (aesthetic) properties. Fourteen variables were investigated: Base fiber linear density, base fiber staple length, amount of crimp in base fiber, post-yield extension of base fiber, type of binder, linear density of binder, staple length of binder, binder concentration, mass per unit area of nonwoven, amount of needle looming, number of laminations per web weight, pressure of bonding, temperature of bonding, and time of bonding. The performance characteristics measured as a function of these variables were maximum tenacity at dry and wet conditions, elongation at dry and wet conditions, tear strength, abrasion resistance, elastic modulus at dry and wet conditions, proportional limit at dry and wet conditions, crease recovery, bending length, flexural rigidity, bending modulus, bulk density, and air permeability. Crimp, linear density, and staple length of the base fiber influence rupture, elastic, and handle prop erties, as expected. Binderproperties, other than type, have no effect due to the destruction of the fiber in the bonding process. Bonding conditions, particularly pressure and temperature, are extremely influential in all types of properties. These variables govern the effectiveness of the bonds. Concentration of binder is extremely important to all types of responses since it governs the number and distribution of bonds. Needle looming affects only rupture properties.

Elastic structures are opted in denim fabrics to increase elasticity and recovery properties of fabrics as well as comfort properties. In this study, performance properties of denim fabrics were evaluated comparatively as tensile strength, tearing strength, air permeability, mass change, dimensional stability, seam slippage, fabric growth, and stretchability. 100% cotton, core-spun and dual-core spun yarns (Ne 16/1) used at weft direction of denim fabrics. 100% cotton ring spun yarns (Ne 13.5/1) were used as warp yarns at all produced three denim fabrics. All the test results were measured numerically and evaluated statistically with one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA). There was significant difference found among fabrics for the variation of weft yarn structures from the statistical evaluation. The impact of varying washing processes on the stretch and growth (%) of denim fabrics was also revealed. Core-spun yarn containing denim fabric showed more growth and stretch percentage in all forms of washing processes. It was also found that packing density of yarns had a significant effect on air permeability of fabrics.

The performance characteristics of nonwoven fabrics have been studied as a function of fiber properties, binder properties, and web construction. The particular type of non-woven selected for study was a web of random-laid base fibers in which randomly placed thermoplastic fibers provide the bonds. The responses studied were those related to rupture, elastic, and handle (aesthetic) properties. Fourteen variables were investigated: Base fiber linear density, base fiber staple length, amount of crimp in base fiber, post-yield extension of base fiber, type of binder, linear density of binder, staple length of binder, binder concentration, mass per unit area of nonwoven, amount of needle looming, number of laminations per web weight, pressure of bonding, temperature of bonding, and time of bonding. The performance characteristics measured as a function of these variables were maximum tenacity at dry and wet conditions, elongation at dry and wet conditions, tear strength, abrasion resistance, elastic modulus at dry and wet conditions, proportional limit at dry and wet conditions, crease recovery, bending length, flexural rigidity, bending modulus, bulk density, and air permeability. Crimp, linear density, and staple length of the base fiber influence rupture, elastic, and handle properties, as expected. Binder properties, other than type, have no effect due to the destruction of the fiber in the bonding process. Bonding conditions, particularly pressure and temperature, are extremely influential in all types of properties. These variables govern the effectiveness of the bonds. Concentration of binder is extremely important to all types of responses since it governs the number and distribution of bonds. Needle looming affects only rupture properties.

In this study, the merino wool woven fabric has been treated with commercially available enzymes, i.e. transglutaminase, lipase, laccase and protease, at various concentrations (0.5–2.0% over the weight of fabric) to impart desirable shrink resistance without deterioration of the fabric properties. Protease enzyme treated wool fabric shows least area shrinkage (3.0%) followed by laccase enzyme (4.3%), lipase enzyme (4.9%) and transglutaminase enzyme (7.9%) treated fabrics, as compared to 13.3% of the untreated (blank) fabric. The specific reaction mechanism of various enzymes that cause a structural change and dimensional stability are also discussed. The tensile strength, extension-at-break, yellowness and whiteness indices of the enzyme treated fabrics are found comparable with the blank fabric, while frictional and handle properties are significantly improved. The enzyme process to impart shrink resistance to wool fabric is found sustainable, easy to scale up and due to comparable mechanical, frictional, handle, whiteness and yellowness properties, there is a potential of an industrial adaption.

Plain and twill weave fabrics produced with unique 67/33 cotton covered, high tenacity polyester staple-core yams in the warp and filling directions were appropriately finished without difficulty. The greige fabrics were desized, heat set, bleached, union dyed, and treated with different levels of dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) resin finish to assess the effect on important properties, including durable press rating, wrinkle recovery angle, dimensional stability, Stoll flex abrasion resistance, pilling resistance, breaking strength, and tearing strength. The test results show that the staple-core-yam fabrics attain satisfactory durable press and dimensional stability after an ordinary process of heat setting at 190°C for 65 seconds. DMDHEU resin slightly improves the durable press rating and wrinkle recovery angles, but more resin does not necessarily improve the properties proportionally; resin as low as 1% in solution gives acceptable DP results and improves pilling resistance. The DMDHEU resin finish diminishes flex abrasion resistance, breaking strength, and tearing strength, but the deterioration is much less than with similar 100% cotton fabrics. The breaking and tearing strengths remain especially high.

PurposeThe purpose of this study is to investigate the mechanical properties of denim fabrics constructed from ring-spun and open-end rotor spun yarns.Design/methodology/approachYarns of 10s Ne count using cotton fibers were spun using the ring and open-end rotor spinning technologies. The yarns were used to produce a denim fabric on an air-jet loom with a 3/1 twill weave structure. Mechanical tests – tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and pilling resistance – of denim fabrics were evaluated. The test results were analyzed using analysis of variance with the help of Software Package for Social Sciences.FindingsDenim fabrics made by using ring-spun yarns exhibited better tensile and tear strength properties than denim fabrics made by using open-end rotor spun yarns. On the contrary, denim produced using open-end rotor yarns have better abrasion resistance, pilling resistance and air permeability than those produced using ring-spun yarns.Originality/valueBoth spinning techniques have a significant influence on the properties of denim fabrics. Whenever better tensile and tear strength is required, it is better to use ring-spun yarns, while if the requirement is better abrasion resistance and pilling resistance with high air permeability, then open-end rotor spun yarns shall be used.

Khadi is a handspun and handloom woven textile fabric made up of natural textile fibers, predominantly cotton and wool. Khadi mainly intended for apparel purposes. Hence, the thermo-physiological properties of wool-cotton blended khadi fabric are crucial in studying fabric comfort. In this study, the 18 types of wool-cotton blended khadi fabrics are produced on a handloom by using wool-cotton blended yarn as warp; and woolen yarn comprised of three different mixes of Australian Merino (AM) wool and JK crossbred (JKC) as weft yarn. Two different weft yarns of 41.7 and 31.2 Tex were prepared using these mixes. The thermo-physiological properties of fabric viz. air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal resistance were studied. The air and water vapor permeability, and thermal resistance of wool-rich blended fabrics were found higher compared to cotton-rich blends. The air permeability is negatively influenced by the fabric cover factor. The coarser weft yarn gives higher air permeability while lower water vapor permeability. The thermal resistance is found to have a positive relationship with fabric cover factor. The wool content in yarn and weft yarn linear density largely influences the thermo-physiological comfort properties of the khadi fabric.

The aim of our work was to establish whether very good to excellent UV (ultraviolet) protective properties of fabrics can be obtained through a suitable fabric construction and yarn colour, at the same time ensuring suitable air permeability. For this purpose, six different fabric structures divided into three groups were employed. The samples were made in blue and red combinations of weft with different sequences and proportions between the upper and lower weave threads. A comparison of different fabric structures and colours was attempted to enable the assessment of the impact of the mentioned parameters on both, UV protective properties and air permeability of fabrics. The analysis comprised the investigation of physical and permeability properties, as well as the colour measurements on twelve different cotton fabrics. The research indicated excellent UV protection (>60) in all samples. UV protection depended on their construction and in a sufficiently closed structure, also on the colour of the used yarn. There was no significant difference between the samples in blue and red. In addition to excellent UV protection, four samples (one double-weft and three double fabrics) also demonstrated very high air permeability, which was 3–5 times higher than in the one-layer sample, which demonstrated the best UV protective properties. The research has shown that fabrics with a very high ultraviolet protective factor value and good air permeability can be made by using a suitable construction and yarn colours that sufficiently absorb UV light; the latter being particularly important for light summer cotton clothes.

This paper presents a detailed exploration of the development and characterization of multifunctional dual-purpose woven fabrics for thermal protective clothing. Through this research, 69 woven fabric prototypes have been carefully designed and produced, integrating various raw materials, yarn, and woven fabric construction parameters, with the aim of optimizing thermal protection properties while ensuring comfort and durability. The analysis led to the identification of two optimal woven fabric samples, which, upon further testing, exhibited exceptional dimensional stability, crease recovery, tear resistance, as well as abrasion and water resistance. Furthermore, the thermal properties were evaluated, demonstrating exceptional flame resistance, limited heat transmission, and high thermal insulation. Additionally, the study evaluated dynamic thermal properties, contact conductive heat transfer, air permeability, water vapour resistance, and thermal resistance of two clothing systems constructed from selected woven fabrics. Statistical analysis confirms significant differences between clothing systems, highlighting the influence of yarn composition and fabric structure on thermal performance and comfort, where one system exhibits better thermal insulation characteristics suitable for colder environments while the other excels in breathability for warmer climates. The developed woven fabrics meet high standards for protective clothing against heat and flame, surpassing currently available comparable woven fabrics on the market in terms of efficacy and performance. This research provides insights into the intricate balance between protection, comfort, and durability of woven fabrics, contributing to advancements in protective textile technology.

As it is known, the most widely used dye class for dyeing cotton fabrics is reactive dyes. However, the reactive dyeing process itself and various finishing processes applied after dyeing affects the physical, mechanical, handle, comfort and functional properties of the fabrics. Therefore, the main aim of this study was to determine the dyeing and finishing processes on the quality-performance characteristics of the cotton knitted fabrics. For this aim, physical (weight, wale/course density), mechanical (bursting strength, pilling, abrasion resistance), handle (bending rigidity), comfort (thermal comfort, air permeability, water vapor permeability) and functional (Ultraviolet protective functionality and flame retardancy of the fabrics) properties of fabrics were tested before and after dyeing and finishing processes. Fabric weight and bursting strength values increases after dyeing and finishing processes due to the shrinkage of the fabrics during wet processing. On the other hand, the pilling and abrasion resistance values ​​of fabrics are not significantly affected by dyeing and finishing processes. Another important result obtained is that the bending length and bending stiffness of the fabrics decrease after dyeing/finishing processes. The thickness values ​​of the fabrics decrease after dyeing-finishing processes and therefore the thermal resistance decreases. It was observed that the air permeability of the fabrics significantly decreased after dyeing-finishing processes. However, the water vapor permeability of the fabrics was decreased very slightly after dyeing and finishing processes. UPF ratings were increased after dyeing and finishing processes. Keywords: Cotton, dyeing, color, functionality, permeability

PurposeBending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics depend on fibre, yarn and fabric-related parameters. However, there is lack of research efforts to understand how bending and shear rigidities change in woven fabrics having similar areal density. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the change in bending and shear rigidities in plain woven fabrics having similar areal density.Design/methodology/approachA total of 18 fabrics were woven (9 each for 100 per cent cotton and 100 per cent polyester) keeping the areal density same. Yarns of 20, 30 and 40 Ne were used in warp and weft wise directions and fabric sett was adjusted to attain the desired areal density.FindingsWhen warp yarns become finer, keeping weft yarns same, bending rigidity remains unchanged but shear rigidity increases in warp wise direction. When weft yarns are made finer, keeping the warp yarns same, both the bending and shear rigidities of fabric increase in warp wise direction. Similar results for fabric bending and shear rigidities were obtained in transpose direction. There is a strong association between fabric shear rigidity and number of interlacement points per unit area of fabric even when fabric areal density is same.Originality/valueVery limited research has been reported on the low-stress mechanical properties of woven fabrics having similar areal density. A novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics having similar areal density. Besides, it has been shown that it is possible to design a set of woven fabrics having similar bending rigidity but different shear rigidity.

The study was aimed to check the effect of eco-friendly antimicrobial finish on 100% polyesterand 50/50 cotton/polyester woven fabrics. The leaves’ extract of Butea monosperma was used as an eco-friendly antimicrobial finish. The fabric was first desized, scoured, bleached and washed then antimicrobialfinish was applied by using pad dry cure method. The aesthetic, comfort and mechanical fabrics propertieswere checked before and after applying antimicrobial finish. Under aesthetic property stiffness andsmoothness appearance was checked, under comfort related property absorbency and air permeability waschecked and under mechanical property tear and tensile strength was checked. The antimicrobial finishwas checked by using ASTEM E2149 Shake Flask method. The AATCC and ISO standard testing methodswere used for checking fabric properties. One way ANOVA statistical test was applied for analysis ofresults. Antimicrobial finish has increased aesthetic (stiffness, smoothness appearance), comfort (absorbency,air permeability) and mechanical (tensile and tear strengths) properties of polyester and cotton/polyesterfabrics. The antimicrobial finish was effective on both 100% polyester and 50/50 cotton/polyester fabricsup to 25 washes. This study is beneficial to medical industry, paramedical staff, sports wears, homefurnishing as well as common people.

The paper focuses on the development of a bilayer-woven fabric and investigating the effect of weave design and material type on its comfort properties. Face layer was plain woven with cotton yarn, while two different weave designs (2/2 and 3/1 twill) and four different materials (cotton, polyester, micropolyester and nylon) were used for the back layer. The comfort properties of fabric, including air permeability (AP), thermal resistance, water vapour resistance and overall moisture management capacity, were determined. It was found that both the layers of fabric as a whole contribute to the comfort properties of bilayer fabric. The highest AP was exhibited by fabrics having both layers of cotton, while 3/1 twill samples have a lower value of thermal resistance as compared to the 2/2 twill samples. The results further showed that micro polyester woven in 3/1 twill weave exhibits better comfort properties.