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Business Model Innovation for Strong Sustainability: Conceptualizing Degrowth Value Creation in the Dutch Fashion Industry

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Abstract
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Purpose: Overconsumption and overproduction in the fashion industry have detrimental impacts on the environment and society. A radical transition of the industry is required to eliminate the impact generated by years of exploiting the Earth’s finite resources while ignoring planetary boundaries. A degrowth transition entails an equitable downscaling of production and consumption in the Global North to increase human well-being and enhance environmental conditions. This article aims to generate an empirical understanding of conceptualizing degrowth in business models, with an emphasis on how value is created in the examined companies and to bridge the gap between two research fields: degrowth and business model innovation for strong sustainability. Design/Methodology/Approach: Our qualitative study investigates how 12 selected companies in the Dutch fashion industry conceptualize degrowth in their business models to create value. Findings: Our results reveal that profit distribution is de-emphasized and that prioritizing social, ecological, and economic value while promoting growth in size and revenue allows these companies to outperform unsustainable competition. Consequently, we found that the examined companies create degrowth value through quality growth. Value maintaining is achieved by reducing resource use and output within production, combined with designing for durability, repairability, and longevity in clothing. The examined companies also share value by collaborating in the exchange of physical resources, knowledge, and skills to facilitate a sustainability transition in the industry. In terms of value unlocking, the companies operationalize degrowth while operating as sustainability influencers and demonstrating transparency regarding the sustainability of their operations and products. Originality/Value: Our study contributes to a practical understanding of sustainable business models that support degrowth-oriented value creation in for-profit fashion companies. Conceptually, the findings highlight key degrowth principles employed by these businesses—such as leveraging sustainability influencers, maintaining transparency about the sustainability of operations and products, assuming responsibility for post-consumer product management, and ensuring fair value distribution. These principles are then linked to value functions that drive sustainable value creation. Finally, this study enriches the existing literature by offering empirical insights into how degrowth principles are implemented at the organizational level.

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Sustainable business model innovation.
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Purpose of the paper: The research aims to better comprehend the mechanisms that allow the generation and dissemination of sustainable value. In particular, assuming the business model as conceptual framework and as unit of analysis, the purpose of the study is to understand factors and processes able to orient the strategic conduct of a company towards sustainable innovation. Methodology: The study adopts a research approach oriented to the discovery and it privileges the analysis of a business case with a high explanatory power. Findings: In highlighting the drivers for the creation of sustainable value and sustainable innovation at the base of the analysed company business model, the research proposes a framework for the Sustainable Business Model Innovation (SBMI). Research limits: The analysis of a single case study, although explanatory, does not allow to reach a generalization of the results. Practical implications: The study offers a contribution to the development of managerial theories on innovation with reference to business models oriented to sustainability. The case analyzed is also a best practice that could guide managers and entrepreneurs to plan innovation and sustainability-driven business models already in the start-up phase. Originality of the paper: In response to a gap in the literature, the study proposal is focused on how companies should incorporate the logic of sustainable development and innovation into their business models at a strategic and holistic level.

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The need to develop sustainable business models, which have a positive effect on environment and society, has received increasing attention in research and practice in the last years. Describing the sustainability of these business models, however, often takes place without robust assessments and without consideration for the wider system within which they are embedded. Early in the innovation process, in particular, a lack of quantitative data, time, and competencies presents an issue. At the same time, Systems Thinking has long been described as necessary for innovating business models for sustainability, but it has not been made clear how exactly Systems Thinking can be used early in the innovation process to assess the sustainability of a business model innovation. This article develops guidelines for embedding Systems Thinking principles into tools for sustainability assessment for use in the early stages of sustainable business model (SBM) innovation. It does so by exemplifying Systems Thinking principles in the context of SBM innovation and analysing their integration in three selected tools for early-stage sustainability assessment. The article shows how, by embedding Systems Thinking into tools for the SBM innovation process, unintended consequences and negative trade-offs can be reduced and the sustainability of the innovation better understood. Eight design guidelines are proposed for effectively using Systems Thinking in tools for early-stage sustainability assessment of SBMs: (1) Define scope of application, (2) Design for collaboration, (3) Integrate the principles “Interconnections”, (4) “Causal relations & feedback loops”, and (5) “System change & adaptation”, (6) Consider sustainability dimensions, (7) Ensure flexibility of integration, and (8) Ensure compatibility with other assessment tools.

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Developing sustainable business model innovation through stakeholder management and dynamic capability: A longitudinal case study

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