Abstract
The author presents the history of local cheese evaluation, from the commodification at the end of the 19th century to modern qualification instruments, emphasizing the collective trademark and the protected designation of origin. The main actors involved in the branding process, their objectives, effects, and specific features are outlined. In addition to strengthening agricultural production, food processing, and market supply, the branding processes have shaped and consolidated representations of (past) regional cheese production and livestock breeding, and have built locality.
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