Abstract

ABSTRACT In the 1960s, corporate funded sensory science radically advanced knowledge about the food texture preferences of American consumers. Most research was geared to knowing what was best to chew, but one influential sensory laboratory at General Foods Corporation made provisional statements about what they believed was generally regarded as “bad to chew.” These haptic discards have since been refashioned by mostly white, mostly male American foodie culture into points of aesthetic discrimination and subsequently as drivers of culinary tourism. At the same time, discriminating eaters that maintained and cultivated these sensory attributes in regional delicacies have grappled with the broader “bad to chew” in complex and difficult ways. This essay poses one way of considering how sensory science serving mass culture and idiosyncratic local tastes have interacted.

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