Abstract
Colour plays a decisive role in the marketing of a cosmetic product. Among thousands of substances used to colour, synthetic dyes are the most widespread in the industry. Their potential secondary effects on human health and different regulatory requirements for their use between the main world markets make analytical control necessary to guarantee the safety of a cosmetic product. However, methodologies for the determination of dyes in cosmetics are scarce with respect to those reported for other cosmetic ingredients such as preservatives or ultraviolet UV filters. In addition, most of the existing methods just consider a part of the total of dyes regulated. On the other hand, many methods have been developed for matrices different than cosmetics such as foodstuff, beverages or wastewater. The current paper reviews the recent developments in analytical methodologies for the control of synthetic dyes in cosmetics proposed in the international scientific literature in the last 10 years (2008–2018). A trend towards the use of miniaturized extraction techniques is evidenced. Due to the hydrophilic nature of dyes, liquid chromatography is the most usual choice in combination with absorbance detectors and, more recently, with mass spectrometry.
Highlights
Colour is a key property of a product to determine the attractiveness for consumers and, its successful marketing
Dyes are synthetic organic compounds that are hydro or oil-soluble and they can be found in cosmetics such as skin care products or toiletries whereas pigments are insoluble, they remain in particulate form, and they are mainly employed in toothpastes or decorative make-up [3]
There are different regulatory requirements for the use of dyes in cosmetics among the main markets (US, Europe and Japan), which becomes a handicap for the commercialization of a specific product
Summary
Colour is a key property of a product to determine the attractiveness for consumers and, its successful marketing. Among the thousands of substances employed as colouring agents, synthetic dyes are preferred over natural (obtained from plants, animals and minerals) given their lower production costs and long-lasting properties such as brightness or greater stability towards light, heat or pH extreme that may occur during the manufacturing process. They can be classified according to chemical. Recent contributions in this field tended to the development of methods based on micro-extraction techniques and liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry
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