Abstract

This review conducted to compare the difference of the formulation of nanoemulsion cosmetics by plant extracts between Centella asiatica, seed oil from Rubus idaeus, Phyllanthus urinaria, Garcinia mangostana L., Vellozia sauamata, and Cordyceps militaris extract. Materials and methods was taken from several literature in valid databases that focuses on current status of the formulation of nanoemulsion and its characteristics, nanoemulsion cosmetics, and formulation of nanoemulsion cosmetics that are made by plant extract as the active ingredient. Comparison of the formulas above can be seen from various aspects. Referring to each article, 4 out of 6 formulas use high energy techniques and the rest use low energy techniques. Formula 1, 3, 6 use high energy technique with high pressure homogenization, and formula 4 uses ultrasonication, which is still a high energy technique. Formulas 2 and 5 use low energy techniques, namely formula 2 using Phase Inversion Composition (PIC) and formula 5 using Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT). High-Pressure Homogenizer (HPH) is the most widely used for the manufacture of nanoemulsions. In terms of formula, the use of components such as surfactant, cosurfactant, oil phase, and water phase is also different from the 6 formulas presented. Even though all of the six formulas are different, the active ingredients in the form of nanoemulsions need to be tested until finally the goal of the cosmetic product is achieved.

Highlights

  • In today's era, the use of nanotechnology is one of the important tools in drug manufacturers, especially nanoemulsions which are used in drug delivery systems and for drug that are difficult to dissolve in water [1]

  • Nanoemulsion is a good technique to be used in the pharmaceutical world, one of which is in the manufacture of cosmetics

  • The active substances can be obtained from various plant extracts that have a repairing effect on the skin

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Summary

Introduction

In today's era, the use of nanotechnology is one of the important tools in drug manufacturers, especially nanoemulsions which are used in drug delivery systems and for drug that are difficult to dissolve in water [1]. The emulsion itself consists of two or more immiscible liquids in which small droplets of the liquid are dispersed in a continuous phase and have interface boundaries and are a colloid system. The nanoemulsion spheres are homogeneous, isotropic, and thermodynamically unstable colloid systems of two immiscible liquids where one of the liquids is dispersed against the other liquid with nano-scale droplets [3]. The carrier is in the form of solid spheres where its surface is lipophilic and amorphous with a negative charge [4]. This emulsion system has a wide and stable interfacial area, and can protect the product from adverse environmental conditions [5]. It is very rare to find nanoemulsions containing non-synthetic surfactants, most of them use synthetic surfactants [6]

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