Abstract

A new algorithm to retrieve wave parameters, such as significant wave height (SWH), peak wave period, wavelength, and wave direction, from marine X-band radar image sequences is proposed. To analyze the heterogeneous nearshore wave field, the empirical orthogonal function is used to extract the principal components (PCs) of the radar image sequence. To retrieve the SWH, a linear relationship between SWH and the standard deviation of PC is established. The maximum entropy power spectral density (PSD) of the first PC is used to derive the peak wave period. The PSD on spatial scale is used to estimate two perpendicular components of the wavelength, and then, the wavelength and wave direction are determined by geometric relationship. Inversion schemes are validated by comparing with data from the in situ buoy; the root-mean-square error between the wave parameters retrieved from radar image sequences and measured by the buoy is 0.21 m for SWH and 0.84 s for the peak wave period, and the biases for these are 0.01 m and 0.33 s.

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