Abstract

The behaviour of wind-generated waves on impermeable slopes of 1:2, 1:4 and 1:10 was investigated in a 40 ft long laboratory wind-wave flume. Apparatus for measuring instantaneous values of the run-up was devised. Wind velocities of up to 44 ft/sec were applied, producing wave heights of up to 2.5 in. Distributions were obtained for the wave and run-up characteristics. The empirical results were compared with theoretical statistical relationships. A comparison was made with the run-ups in paddle-wave experiments. The relationship between the waves and their run-ups was further investigated by a comparison of simultaneous recordings, using the methods of spectral analysis.

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