Abstract
Hibiscus abelmoschus seed extract is used in anti-ageing cosmetics and improves both the firmness of skin and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Whilst it promotes collagen production, less is known about its wider impact upon the remodelling of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM). In this study we investigated its effects upon the expression and deposition of key ECM biomarkers. A formulation containing the botanical derivative was prepared as an oil in water gel cream and applied to photoaged extensor forearm of healthy individuals (n=9; aged 61-79). The test product and vehicle control (30 μl) were re-applied every 4 days over a 12-day period under occlusion; all-trans retinoic acid (RA; 0.025%) was applied for the final 4 days, as a positive control. Skin biopsies (3 mm diameter) were obtained from all sites and the expression of selected biomarkers compared against baseline biopsies derived from an area of untreated but occluded extensor forearm skin. Epidermal thickness was significantly increased in skin treated with RA (63.6 ± 23 μm) compared to baseline (37.1 ± 5.8 μm; p< 0.0001). Epidermal convolution, and elastic fibre deposition, as determined by Weigert’s Fuchsin staining, were found to be unaffected by any of the applications. Using a semi-quantitative ordinal scale to assess de novo ECM deposition, papillary dermal fibrillin-rich microfibrils were found to be significantly increased in response to treatment with H. abelmoschus (3.42 ± 0.53, p<0.01) or RA (3.4 ± 0.46, p<0.01) compared to the baseline (2.48 ± 0.52). There was no significant difference between the baseline and the vehicle control (vehicle, 2.99 ± 0.85). This study suggests that remodelling and new synthesis of papillary dermal fibrillin-rich microfibrils, induced by the H. abelmoschus seed extract, may contribute towards the marked improvement in the appearance of age-related wrinkles when included in over-the-counter anti-ageing cosmetics.
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