2 - Production and processing of natural fibres

Abstract

Natural cellulosic and protein fibres with exclusive properties have stood the test of time since ancient times and remain prevalent as the preferred fibres. Despite the dominance of man-made and synthetic fibres, the comfort of cotton or the lustre of silk have not been able to be replicated. However, the production of natural fibres is facing considerable constraints due to the limitations in the availability of land, water and other natural resources. Hence, approaches to make natural fibres more sustainable and reduce their environmental impact are being aggressively pursued. The use of integrated farming systems, newer varieties of cotton, improved retting that requires considerably lower amounts of water are some attempts being made to improve the sustainability of traditional fibres. Furthermore, alternative sources such as the byproducts and coproducts of agricultural production and processing are being considered to produce natural cellulosic and regenerated protein fibres. Similarly, biomasses that are relatively easy to grow and require fewer natural resources are also being pursued as a source of natural cellulosic fibres. Lignocellulosic residues including stems, leaves and husks, coproducts from agricultural processing such as feathers, oil meals and biomass such as switchgrass offer sustainable, renewable and low-cost alternatives as sources of cellulosic and protein fibres. Several reports suggest that the fibres obtained from these sources have the properties and potential required for most textile and other fibrous applications. This chapter provides an overview of the potential, properties and applications of unconventional natural cellulosic and protein fibres and efforts made to make the conventional fibres more sustainable.