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Abstract
Silk floss is a type of thread made from cocoons that cannot be spun into filament yarn, made by loosening the cocoon’s fiber in warm water. Floss yarn is thread made by spinning silk floss, and the fabric woven from floss yarn is called Tojoo or Myeonjoo. The traditional techniques of spinning silk floss and floss yarn is lost; thus, Tojoo is no longer woven today. Silk floss can be made by twisting the fiber by hand, but it was made using wooden frames, bamboo frames, and traditional roof tiles in the Joseon Dynasty. The fabric was degummed using lye and perfumed oil. After seaports were opened to Western civilization and imports, wooden frames became the tool of choice. Fabric degumming was performed through a mix of lye and sodium bicarbonate—or, more accurately, only sodium bicarbonate during this time. Once synthetic detergent entered the market, a mix of synthetic detergent and sodium bicarbonate was used for this purpose. Floss silk was made to produce floss yarn or used as material for vests, military coats, and as a substitute for cotton batting in blankets.
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